Climb starts in the middle of the wall on a lovely finger jam (this is right of the finger jam for the Pine Tree Step across). At the top of that crack amble over to the roof that is the crux of Pine Tree Dihedral. Go straight over the roof (crux). There is a nice finger ledge in the middle of the western face of the roof.  I can just barely reach it with my left hand (I'm 5'8").  I do a one arm hang (Great looking "hero" move!), match hands, and do a pull-up with two small nubs for feet on edge of roof.

Heisenberg Cheese Danse

Old Shoes

Pine Tree Dihedral

The Pillar

Pilloried

Lumby Ridge

Working on the Railroad

Cop-Out

Snedegar's Nose

Spectacle

Cop Ripper

Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral)

Pine Tree Step-Across

Jack The Crooked Cop

Catenary Crack

Jack the Ripper

Tank engine

Right of the Eye

Face-Off

Tang Shwang

The Pine Tree Step-Across is more a mental challenge than a physical one.  The climb is located just left of the inside corner that leads up to the sizeable pine tree growing out of the rock near the top of the wall.  Climb up this face until you reach a large overhaning block just left of the pine tree.  Surmount the block using a mantel.  Once on the block lean into the blank face and step across the abyss to a small landing pad for your foot.  While stepping reach with your left hand for a hidden hold.  Continue up to the top of the wall.

Layback on quartzite slopers. Mmmmmmmmmm....Takes some balance!

The Pine Tree Dihedral is an easily protected route that is excellent for novice trad leaders.  The route follows the inside corner that sits below the teenaged pine tree growing out of the rock near the top of the wall.  Climb this route by jamming the crack of the dihedral up to the overhanging block midway up the wall.  Proceed to the right of the overhanging block and continue up the dihedral, passing the tree on your left.  Duck under the tree branches and follow the inside corner to the top of the wall.

The Pillar is a fun easier climb that's great for beginners.  Climb up the pillar by either using ledges on the pillar itself or by using offwidth moves up the chimney between the pillar and the wall.  Once on top of the pillar either go to the right of the staggered overhangs and up the face, or traverse left (or jump) under the overhangs to a pocket in the upper section of Catenary Crack.  Whatever you do, don't get stuck under the overhangs.  This variation is no fun.

Will you be subject to public ridicule?  Sure!  but do the climb anyhow, it'll be fun! 

  Climb the pillar one of several ways.  Where "The Pillar" steps left and "Tang Shwang" heads up, you step around the bulge and follow the crack up to the right.

An old mountaineering classic.  A pleasant outing on clean rock. 

  The first pitch is the hand/layback crack in the center of the buttress. 25 ft, 5.3. 

  Walk back across the platform under the large pine tree. 

  The second pitch is the chimney in the next buttress, to the right of "Old Shoes" and "Face-Off".  The crux is moving up around a cluster of chockstones.  35 ft, 5.4 

  Scramble back/up to the buttress that includes the Turret.  If you are creative, you can turn this into another pitch! 

  The third pitch has a few options.  (1) The classic is to work your way up across the ledges to the left of the chimney; or, (2) Go up the chimney.  35 ft, 5.3 up the chimney. 

Head up the meaty looking crack just to the right of "Right of the Eye."  Although it looks like it could be wide, it is mainly a hand-crack.  A the Eye's brow level, keep heading straight up.  For an extra five feet, finish up on the last moves of the Eye.

Cop-Out starts about half-way between Snedegar's Nose and The Pillar.  Climb up the slightly overhanging wall on finger cracks until you reach the inside corner under the mid-size roof.  Once under the roof step out of the corner and onto the face to your right.  Use vertical cracks to ascend to the top.

Snedegar's Nose is one of the few true "ridge" routes at the Lake, making it a unique experience.  Climb up the obvious ridge using the corner and ledges.  Protection on lead can be a little sparse, but using a top rope sets you up for a nice big pendulum fall.

Head up the grassy ledges to the right of "Pine Tree Dihedral".  At the first big crack, head up, or continue farther up to the right for an easier time.  Pull the little step onto the ledge to the left, the scene of many a beached whale move from "Pine Tree".  Pass the pine tree on the right, and continue up the crack to the top.

Cop Ripper is named for its location between Jack the Ripper and Cop-Out.  Crappy name, hard climb.  Climb the face between the previously mentioned climbs by crimping on small face holds while trying to stay on the slightly overhanging wall.  Finish up by surmounting the mid-size roof near the top.

Railroad Offwidth is the inside corner just to the left of Old Shoes, which follows the nose of the buttress.  To climb the route, use the crack in the corner and easy ledges to ascend.  Near the top use layback moves or simply jam the crack.  Either stop at the large ledge or climb to the top using the walls on either side.

A sure to be neo-classic this is my favorite line on the wall linking the meat of "Jack the Ripper" with the best part of "Cop Out". 

  It starts with a tricky boulder problem and follows a thin seam to a no hands rest. Then an airy traverse into a perfect dihedral and through the roof on good holds.

catenary (n): The curve assumed by a cord of uniform density and cross section that is perfectly flexible but not capable of being stretched and that hangs freely from two fixed points. 

  Catenary Crack is a terrific line up the north wall of the Railroad Amphitheater.  Start out on the slightly overhanging bottom section (crux).  The hard part is getting started, and this is made worse by the fact that the rock here is often wet.  Once off the ground follow the crack up between the roof on your left and the staggered overhangs on your right.  If you can get up this one try some 5.10's.

Jack the Ripper is a short route near the west end of the north wall of the Railroad Amphitheater.  Find the diagonal crack about 5 feet left of Snedegar's Nose.  Use hand jams to ascend the slightly overhanging crack.  Finish on the ridge to the left of the mid-size roof.

"Right of the Eye" is the inside corner that starts about 10 feet right of Pine Tree Dihedral.  The route starts out with blocky moves, then makes its way up into an inside corner.  Near the top you will pass to the right of a large block with an overhang (this is the "right" eye, while the block above Pine Tree Dihedral is the "left" eye).  Stay right of the overhang and climb to the top using the crack in the corner along with some ledges to get to the top.

Climb to the top right of a detached block and step onto the face for an interesting crux.  From there the climb moves up and left towards the arete.  Top out at the top left corner of the face.

Start on the frontside of the Pillar (not the chimney side), using the wide crack to ascend to the top of the pillar. From there, move up the small roofs above. Use some good underclings and come out of the roofs on the left face to topout.

The Railroad Amphitheater is a terrific climbing spot with easy access and fairly long, interesting routes.  The north wall of the Amphitheater is overhanging and includes challenging routes like Catenary Crack, Cop-Out, Cop Ripper, and Jack the Ripper.  The south wall includes Pine Tree Step-Across and Pine Tree Dihedral, both long, fun routes.  Railroad Amphitheater is also home to Lumby Ridge, a series of climbs on the southeast ridge of the formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheater