This is a fun route with alpine granite that ranges from amazing to a little grungy and flakey.  There are plenty of sections of wide climbing and rewards those who make the hike into this area with a grand adventure.

The tower

The climb follows the prominent crack on the right side of the face, and the first pitch starts to the right of the lowest arch on the face.

Pitch 1: (5.6) crack climbing to a ledge

Pitch 2: (5.9) Wandering face and crack Climbing

Pitch 3: (5.10) Thin Seam into a 5.8 crack to a nice ledge

Pitch 4: (5.10) Easier crack climbing leads to a left traverse back into the main wide crack

Pitch 5: (5.10) Long Pitch up a crack that has 2 distant roofs to pull through (Save #2-4 for belay plus you need big pro for next pitch)

Pitch 6: (Burl fest) (5.10+ OW and Squeeze)  Leave the belay and work towards the crux that lies about a bolt that is just above a small roof in an off width section of the crack.  I found this pitch containing wet moss in the back of the crack which kept the excitement high

Pitch 7: (5.8) continue up the crack and move right up a ramp at the top of the pitch to avoid some loose rock and then back left into an alcove.

Pitch 8: (5.8)  Another pitch with broken rock in the corner but a clean crack on the left wall when the corner ends continue up to the right on a ledge and belay (avoid your rope running across loose rocks)

Pitch 9 (easy 5th) continue up to the summit wondering up and slightly left.

A great topo created by Dave Nettle that was shared with us and helped us on our route.

Further Information:

Fiddler Pg 96

Secor Page 82

Summit Post:

summitpost.org/tulainyo-tow…

Tulainyo Tower

Kind Line

East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller

If you are hiking up George Creek be sure not to miss this gem of a route.  Moderate climbing, steep rock, nice belay ledges and an awesome position make this route worthy of many more ascents.  The rock is a little grainy but by no means bad. we descended to the west and then hiked over Vacation Pass.  Don't let the name fool you, Vacation Pass was the crux of the day.

The East Arete is Classic - one of the best routes of its grade and type in the range....downright enjoyable!!!

Ridge Scrambling on Mt. Carl Heller

I think it shares the quality and style of east ridge of Russel and the east ridge of muir...just with really low chances of running into anyone else.

Climb the East Ridge on enjoyable rock to the summit...staying left of the gully at the very top.

Fiddler Pg 94

Secor Pg 83

sunrise on Carl Heller

There is more info that can be found on climbing this route with a great trip report from a winter ascent here:

markpthomas.com/mountaineer…

and another description here:

summitpost.org/mt-carl-hell…

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo Tower