Slab start to great features, goes up and slightly left, then back right up for a few fun lieback type moves. Shares anchor with Dancing on Dimes (11d)

French Curve

Rough + Ready Crack

Crackerman

Mac 10

unnamed 5.7

unknown

Saladthe

Look No Hands

Climb up and right on low angle ledges past 5 or 6 bolts. There are anchors on the east side of the big ledge.

Obvious hand-size crack up the center of the Sundagger Wall. Slightly flaring and highly textured, tape is strongly recommended. Start on a broad shelf, climb through a small bush and up a face past 3 bolts (5.7) to the crack.

Sustained hard 5.10 climbing that moves up and right past nine or ten bolts to a pair of shuts.

Unnamed 5.7 left of crackerman. Crux was first move, easily linked to "Look No Hands." (Not in SDC Guidebook, on C. E. Hubbard topo on rockclimbing.com)

This is the leftmost bolt line on Sundagger Wall.  Start at the right side of the moss and follow the slab to a right-slanting crack.  Climb up and left over the crack and continue up the slab.  High on the route there is a vertical crack on the right.  Either use the crack or stay to the left.  The crack offers opportunity for protection above the last bolt but the climbing is low angle and very easy at this point.  The anchor is just above a horizontal where the face steepens, to the left of the aforementioned crack.  Be aware that this climb is longer than half a 60m rope, even with standard rope stretch!  Tie a knot in the end before lowering; for top-roping and lowering the belayer should be to the climbers right to shorten the overall distance.

A nice contrast to the pumpy routes on patina wall, you have to rely more on your feet than your hands.  First crux halfway up and a second crux between the last bolt and the anchor.

Move straight left from the anchor atop Crackerman (optional .5" gear before 1st bolt) for 12 feet, then up through slabby dishes to chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sundagger Wall