Despite its relatively diminutive height and lack of top anchor, this route is absolutely worth the effort! There's nothing but perfect stone and fun moves the entire way.

Start on the left side of the buttress at a seam. The seam is very shallow at the start but it can be protected with a little fiddling (gear gets better as you go). Make some unique technical moves up the seam to gain some great jugs below a slight bulge. Make a long reach out of the bulge, moving left to the arete. Follow good horizontals up the airy arete and top out on a mossy ledge with a nice-sized tree.

Fern Creek Direct

Fall Line

Prada Willies

The Land Before Time

This climb is super fun!   Steep climbing with incredibly good holds.   Start by climbing straight up aiming for nothing less than jugs.  After bolt 3, make a reachy move to some great holds below a pronounced overhang.  Try to shake out here.  Find a finger lock in the overhang, pull the overhang and clip the bolt.  Make another reachy move to a shallow hold (for this climb) and move fast to more jugs (crux).  From here, keep it together and trend up and right with increasingly good holds.  The last jug may be hard to find.

Not terrific, lots of hollow sounding flakes, short and covered in lichen... I am selling this route to the very elusive sport adventure climber. If this is your forte, come and eat your fill!

The Land Before Time is a great bouldery route on quality stone.  Expect steep core intensive movement.  Stick clip the first bolt, span the chasm and begin with some campus moves on jugs.  The crux boulder problem consists of five moves between the second and fourth bolts.  It requires a combination of finger strength and core strength.  Once past the crux make long reaches between good horizontal ledges.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 9a) Fern Creek Falls