Pitch 1

:  Start up the middle of the apron, following three bolts to a 2-bolted chained anchor (5.8, 110'). There are a few options for gear (small cams and nuts, including knob tie-offs) near the top of the pitch. Some folks may feel this first pitch to be a bit runout. The FA was done on a hot day, making for some insecure frictioning.

Pitch 2

:  From the chained anchors, head up and slightly left on knobby features to the first bolt. At this point, the knobs disappear and its pure friction. Clip the second bolt and gun for a big overlap (pro: cams to .4). Pass over the overlap and climb the easy 5.6 slab above to a deep recess. Belay from here on gear (pro to #3). OPTIONAL: one can continue out of the recess and to the left to join up with the 'thankless' 3rd pitch of 'Funnel Runnel' (yes, there is a 3rd yet short pitch of FR!). This pitch is protected by a bolt while doing a stretchy reach across of a steep recess.

Walk off to the right to get back down to the base. Or simply do the first pitch (5.8) and rap from the chains

Sizzle Lean

Naval Eagle

Tales from the Wadi

Bird is the Word

Funnel Runnel

Five Amigos

Momma's Little Fledgling

An excellent 3 pitch climb.

First pitch goes up the slabbly apron past 6 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Second pitch goes up knobby runnels and then up a slab and a left facing corner to a large ledge.  Gear anchor.

Pitch three starts off with a high bolt off big boulder on the big ledge  (it's off left a bit)..then up very easy terrain to the top.  I went off right near the top on easier ground and belayed on the summit from a tree.

All three pitches are rated 5.8.  This climb has good protection throughout and is a fantastic climb.

A tricky friction slab protected by bolt leads to easier climbing above. Shares an anchor with Tales from the Wadi

An enjoyable slab route! A few tricky friction moves are protected by a bolt, followed by cruiser friction to a chain anchor. A variation pitch up chicken heads can be done, which is part of Funnel Runnel.

Originally a TR route, but it now has bolts. Go past three bolts on slab to the shared anchors with the P1 anchor of Momma's Little Fledgling.

Pitch 1

:  Start at a thin crack that eventually peters out to a seam (small RP's and blue/green Aliens helpful). Clip a bolt above the seam and work up to the 2nd bolt (.10c). Pass the 2nd bolt and move up and left toward a crack above. Clip the 3rd bolt, while doing a combination of friction stem moves to the crack (pro: #2 Camelot). Pull through the crack and into easier terrain (5.6, 110'). Belay on gear (pro to #4).

Pitch 2

:  Continue up the left to right slanting crack to the top of the far left side of the Gold Buttress. Once at the buttress, make a steep yet easy series of moves on good knobby features (110'). Belay at the the notch (pro to #1 and slings). Walk off right and down slabs to the right side of Lost Eagle to return to the base.

Start up a left to right sloping foot ramp. Clip the first bolt and continue straight up, passing 2 more bolts. There is optional pro near the top (small cams and slings for knobs). Continue to a chained anchor. Lower off or one can scramble off to the left past the Melting Wall.

P1 - 5.7 - 25m

P2 - 5.8 - 22m

P3 - 5.6 - 10m

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Apron