The first recorded traverse of the most upper wall of Index first happened in August of 1950. The first ascent party consisting of Schoening and Beckey climbed in sneakers over two nights. They reached the summit of the north peak by noon on the first day, before spending a night on the middle and main summits.

Modern parties can likely do the route in one night, with the cruxes being water and conditions. Climbing early season can bring more snow, but greater risk of rock falling down from overhead. Late season brings less overhead hazard, but snow/water becomes rare. A traverse in any season will be quite the serious endeavor.

Regardless of when you climb it, be prepared for amazing views and a lot of loose rock.

Traverse of Mount Index

North Face

The lower pitches are okay, the middle part before the bowl is jungle-tree climbing but once above the north face bowl the 3 pitches are are terrific. It is actually a better winter climb than summer as much of the middle bush/trees are covered in snow/ice

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Peak