Moderate finger locking and hand jamming leads you to the Panty Dropper boulder problem. Exit the roof to climber's left.

O.P.D

Seamingly Binary

CloudN9ne

Bucking the Sun

Bromancing the Stone

Endless Party

Orange Blossom Special

Sweet Thunder Extension

Sweet Thunder

Drop the Hammer

Transwestern Pump

Follow twin seams and sequential climbing up a steep orange face then boulder out a grey bulge. Some of the coolest featured basalt I have seen at Volunteer!

Easy climbing on somewhat broken rock leads you to a steep bolted crux, then enjoy jugs to a large ledge below the rim. Two more bolts protect a final hard sequence to the top.

This sport anomaly in trad-land may offer the best warm-up on the south side; it offers engaging climbing to get you firing for the day, without the time commitment required of the trad lines here of similar grade. It is a wandering line that follows the most generous features up this striking black streak; some route-finding is necessary to keep this in the grade range, but for the savvy basalt climber, this is a cool pitch at the grade.  

  Start off of a good triangular ledge with a bolted belay. Work up a short dihedral to the high 1st bolt, and cut a hard right to get established on the arête (tenuous, easy to get suckered too high on the traverse). Once on the arête, head up and start moving right to the 3rd bolt (Sweet Thunder stays on the arête proper). Crank up a large welded flake/block (stood strong against much prying, but I didn't want folks putting gear behind it so I added bolts) to a short dihedral with fingerlocks (often unfortunately muddy thanks to runoff from the crack above). The corner is brief lived, as you exit hard left on a horizontal jug rail back to the arête proper. Head up on cool cinder features, weaving right and then back left to exit in a groove. A couple of the bolt placements in this last cinder section were positioned for rock quality, which sadly didn't necessarily align with optimal placement.  

  For the grade, this is a rather complex line to read, but once you figure out the sequences it is quite fun. It's a route that gets better with repeat visits. The wandering nature makes rope-drag a concern, and I recommend using about 1/2 draws and 1/2 slings on the bolts before traversing bits.

Climb the obvious splitter crack.  Starts thinner and then quickly becomes sustained steep hands for the majority of the route.  If you like hand cracks, this is your route.

You' will find just about everything Volunteer can throw at you on this elegant line at the far left side of the Memorial Wall. Climb straight up from The Sindarete belay and clip a lone protection bolt. Take a deep breath. Technical movement and protection up the stemming corner start this party off. Negotiate the powerful sporty crux above tiny gear and cop a well deserved rest before venturing left onto the steep slab and arete. Wild moves on two finger pockets above some inventive nests of gear deposit one below an exposed fingers finish immediately right of The Falconer finish. Party On!

This is a variation and extension to the start of Sweet Thunder. It gives sweet thunder a start separate from Bucking the Sun. The extension also adds a harder crux on quality rock. 

Start on a large ledge ~15ft down and climbers right of the original start. Climb the steep prow past 4 bolts, cross the Bucking the Sun line and finish up the original Sweet Thunder arete. 

A rare sport arête for the area that delivers cerebral cranking on quality, water-worn basalt.  

  This is essentially the direct version of Bucking the Sun, and shares the start and finish. Start up the first 2 bolts of Bucking, and simply stay on the arête where Bucking cuts right into the corner. There is a series of tricky maneuvers separated by stances on the arête, with the crux being a very tenuous puzzle that is so basalty! Finish up the cool cinder section of Bucking, wandering right and back left on the best features amidst a sea of cobble blobs.  

  Much thanks to Blake McCord, tireless local developer who has spent a remarkable amount of time checking out potential new crags and lines. He tipped me off to this and told me to go ahead with it.

This long crack system cleaves through a nice panel of orange stone amidst the somewhat jumbled "no man's land" between the Memorial and West End Walls. It offers up a lot of mileage with good variety of movement with an emphasis on handjams. I did a lot of trundling and cleaning on this thing, but there are several chockstones and welded flakes/blocks that one must pass is a couple sections. Everything that remains has held strong against much prying and hammering. For those comfortable with a bit of blocky rock (think Waterfall), this is a great route for the grade!  

  The line starts from very near the bottom of the cliff, on a small, triangular stance about 10' up, just right of the crack system. The belay takes red C3 sized gear.  

  Weave up splitter hands through big blocks. Place some deep pro (sling long) at the base of a right-leaning, bulging slot and surmount this staying on the outside of the slot utilizing some handy jug rails. Hands, fingers, and face holds lead to a panel of hollow flakes to the right of the crack (all pried on). Shortly above is the distinct crux of the route, where the crack pinches out, necessitating a big move or some mega stemming/shenanigans to hit a fingerlock and tight hands above to the top of the pillar. Atop the pillar, the rock becomes the cinder-coated variety that is common on most Memorial Wall topouts (Sindarete). Dance around a big block perched on the ledge, and head up steep hands/cups to a final, steep, left-facing corner. Jam up the good crack in the corner and the flake on the right wall, until you pull right onto the apex of this flake, which is very thin, but again held up against the prybar. From the tombstone flake, the route culminates in a wild exit on steep cinder blobs and jugs.  

  Named after my trusty piton hammer (inherited from my father and having served me for 15 years) became unclipped and plunged into the canyon, breaking the wooden handle.

Simply different. Face climbing and stemming past 12 bolts.

Section of wall below the Hobel Memorial. The area is home to some steep orange rock as well a enormous hanging detached pillar/flake on the west end.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6. Memorial Wall