Follows a crack on the right side of the wall.  It shares the first few moves with the route to its right (Burn, Baby, Burn), but it has its own protection bolts.  The first 4 of these are sustained steep pulling on sidepulls with a neat heel hook sequence.  This is probably around 12b.  You next follow the crack up to a small roof with good holds and numerous rests.  This is easy 5.11 climbing for 6 or 7 bolts.  There is a great rest at the roof.  Next comes the crux, pulling the small bulge and moving left to a slot.  Climbers with short arms may find the crux sequence very difficult as there are really no intermediate holds.  Finish up the beautiful headwall passing one more bolt to a two bolt anchor.

Holy Smoke

Liar, Liar, Pants on Fire

Rising from the Ashes

Spontaneous Combustion

Zozobra

Burn, Baby, Burn

Fire in the Hole

A long journey with variable movement and 4 distinct cruxes.  It starts in an incipient crack for the first 4 bolts.  The initial crux is at bolt 4 where the seam pinches down and you have to use some non positive pockets to connect back to the crack.  Next cruise up to a good rest with your hands on a good ledge, clipping bolts five and six en route.  The hardest part of the route is the next 3 bolts, with sustained long moves on pockets that keep getting smaller.  After this there is another good rest before tackling a bulge on crimps and an undercling pocket, the third crux.  One more rest gets you ready for the slopey arete that guards the anchors.  Quality climbing but the rock could be a little more solid.

Clean face climbing, starting from the right and traversing slightly left after bolt two. The bottom is quite tricky and there is a bouldery move between bolt 4 and 5. This was supposed to be the 5.10 warm up but it did not turn out that way.

Sustained pocket pulling up a gently overhanging wall for 8 bolts.  The hardest moves are between bolts 3 and 4, but there is no real rest until the second to last bolt.  One more crux after this shake guards the anchors.  I fell off clipping the chains before I finally redpointed this one.

The left arête on the wall. Scramble up on a small ledge to gain the first bolt. Clip number two from a left hand side pull, then start hugging up the arête. There is a crux between bolts four and five, followed by a decent rest. Next surge up some more difficult climbing to the hardest part of the route between bolts six and seven.  From the right hand clip hold at bolt 6, you bump twice with the left to a good sidepull pocket, cross over to a tight right hand 2 finger, and then up to a hueco just past bolt 7.  Milk an okay rest here and fire past one more crux at bolt eight. Tenuous feet, a small right hand crimp, an inobvious left hand side pull, and a wide left hand pinch on the arête leads up to the anchor.  You might want to skip the last bolt because there is no real clipping hold.  It's a pretty long fall, but safe.

Start in a corner for the first two bolts. The first few moves are shared with Holy Smoke, but the bolts are not.  The crux is pulling past bolt 2 through a little bulge and getting established on the face above. From here it's probably 5.11 with fun moves on good pockets. Good second pitch.

Begins on the face left of the arête of Spontaneous Cumbustion. Climb vertical rock up slopey crimps and pockets for 8 bolts. It's probably about 12b to the roof.   Next pull the small roof on jugs to gain a vertical headwall above. The crux is the last two bolts. Expect cryptic footwork to move between small positive pockets and crimps

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rising from the Ashes