Night Songs is named for the 80's hair metal classic Cinderella album and song. As well as the fact that I may... or may not... have bolted it in the dead of night. It's a crimpy little thing with a fairly sequency nature.  

  Stick Clip the first bolt, or scramble on to a convenient boulder to the right and clip it from there. The climb can be started off of the boulder but you would miss about 8 feet of fun movement down low. So start down and left and climb up at a slight left leaning angle rapidly deciphering the puzzle of hand and foot movements before you pump out. 

  I don't think there is too distinct of a crux but I can say, once you clip the last bolt it should be smoother sailing to the top.

Night Songs

East West East (aka Unknown Soldier)

Mighty Mouse

Hit-Girl

Book of Sins

This is the line of weakness up the otherwise more difficult wall.  

  Follow the path of least resistance up the corner past a hidden jug or two and a little puzzle awaits you at the last bolt.  

  Really a pretty fun bit of climbing for a short, formerly mungy corner. It may never be a classic but I think it will entertain many.

I've heard this one called as much as 5.11d but I found it to be a good bit easier than that and it hasn't seen all that many ascents so I figure I will leaving with no letter grade until we get more votes here. 

  As for the climbing, Pleasant, Not too hard to start not to hard to finish but the middle gets a bit devious. I found using certain foot work made it quite reasonable. I will say more reasonable for tall folks than short.  

  worth doing and please let us know what you think for a grade.

A short route with really fun movement. Make hero moves on good holds to start... when the holds run out decide if the sequence climbs leftish or rightish.May the odds be forever in your favor.NOTE- 10/7/2020 Dennis Tung reports (see comments) "Today, we found the second bolt to be spinning freely. I tried to tighten it with my fingers but the bolt pulled right out with little effort. We removed it so that others would know the bolt is missing." RHall Admin

"Show's over Muther****ers" - Hit-girlWhile this will never be a mega classic sport climb, and it looks a lot like a boulder problem, after hemming and hawing about it for years I decided that it would be a worth while addition to the crag. And after climbing it, I have to say, I whole heartedly agree with myself haha. For a short little thing it packs in a good deal of enjoyable and challenging climbing. Great flow on crimps at the beginning with the holds getting better and moves getting bigger as you move up. Author's note: I climbed the FA when it was pretty wet (sponging off the crux holds with a tee-shirt). It was 90 degrees, with 100% humidity (started pouring soon after I topped out. And I did it without a rope (2 crash pads). This is not a brag, rather a defense incase I got the grade way wrong. If you climb it and see the grade to be way off, just let me know. I really am not attached to it. I felt it started at around V3+/4 and eased off the higher you get. 

This is the left cliff when you look upstream. It is the steeper wall and only has one real beginner route. Everything else is 5.10 and up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Small Wall