This ultra-classic route starts in the shallow (1-2 foot deep, right-facing) dihedral, facing the road.  It protects well, albeit somewhat strenuously at times, in the obvious placements.  Several placements and sizes of small to medium gear are available.  Make a committing, but not too difficult move up and out of the dihedral to the bolt.  Shake out the legs and arms then run up the fun face past several bolts to the groove where you'll make about a 30 foot runout for the anchors while pondering the route's name and gunning for glory (don't slip up!).  There's three bolts for the anchor and, at the time of this posting, only one is any good.  One of the bad ones is a new anchor but, unfortunatley, was poorly placed and is loose (i.e., the bolt rattles around in the hole and the hanger nut needs to be tightened down).  The other bad bolt (the reason for the two new bolts) is an old button head and a mighty thin hanger.  Bring a bolt kit and one new bolt/hanger set up to fix a safer anchor if you can.  We were without such paraphanalia on this trip, but replaced the old slings by equalizing all three anchors.

Nantucket Sleighride

Shiver Me Timbers

Whale'n

Moby Dick Standard Routes

(all fixed pro) Located on the south side of Moby Dick. 4 bolts plus anchor bolts with webbing. Might consider taking new webbing along in case webbing needs replaced. The top has a great ledge with an amazing few of the Ten Pins.  First bolt is 12' off the base. Easy stem over to Moby Dick.  Clip the first of 4 bolts. The rappel is the same as the one for Nantucket Skeighride.

Follows the nice face right of Nantucket Sleighride. Wander up the weaknesses of the wall passing the crux at the 3rd bolt and a redpoint crux up higher. Will clean up better with traffic. Shares Nantucket's anchors, but not ideal for top-roping.

Climb ten feet up an easy face, then step across to the main rock.  There are two cracks above as you step across.  One directly above you and one to the left (see the picture).  The only protection available at this point is to place a small stopper or tiny cam in seam above you.  Then either make a delicate and long step to the left and go up the thinner left crack, or go straight up the wider crack above you.  I went up the right crack (above the step across).  It was more like a "face" climb in the crack rather than jamming -- but the crack was useful for setting protection.

A nice, tall formation with quality rock and routes.  The largest stone in its grouping and very near the road.

Description

Protection

Routes in Moby Dick