stick clip second bolt.  after pulling through crux at start, route is easier for a couple bolts climbing amazing pockets and pinches! then another crux at the end of dihedral that sustains to a final hard move before the last bolt (left knee pad probably necessary). A little outro tension and easier climbing to the anchors finishing on the arete.  Fun steep addition to the Emperor!

The Porpoise of Man

The Emperor's New Clothes

Tide Pull

Schtick Your Sumb

The Temptress

Better Than Sex.... Porpoises

Parallax Wave

The Empress

The Emperor's New Sumb

Second to last route on the right side of the cliff. Starts on a 6 foot tall boulder to the right of the cliff and do a hero jump to gain a large rail about 8 feet off the ground. An alternative start is to boulder up to the same rail at V7 which apparently only kicks the grade up to 5.13a. After either start, you'll be met with some awesome climbing that will take you to the highest point on the cliff. Stick Clip first bolt.

This is the left most route on the cliff and very tide dependent route. You'll definitely want to stick clip the first bolt and even then it's recommended you don't fall before the first clip given that a large pendulum will swing you into the rocks below. Fun climb and great warm up for the harder climbs.

Start to the left of The Emperor's New Clothes. Climb up obvious, good looking features to the ledge. Continue up the face where you'll encounter the move that this route is named after.

Climb the new start (2 bolt V5) left of Emperor’s New Cloths directly underneath where Stick your Sumb finishes the rightward traverse and starts climbing straight vertically up. Once at the nice ledge six to eight feet left of the arête, link into Empress and climb as  Empress would climb.

This new start is also a direct start to Stick your Sumb and potentially bumps Sumb to 5.13b if done this way.

Start as for Schtick Your Sumb via prominent slots; after reaching the ledge, climb left onto the pocketed face. 5.11 climbing and a small roof lead to a big move that will challenge the vertically limited followed by a small run-out on thin holds to the chains. 5.12c? Some say 5.12b. Has been called "the best 5.12 in the Bay Area."

Start 5 feet right of the first bolt on vertical slots and a giant foot ledge. Climb up and left on some large features to the first bolt and continue up via large lock offs and sequential moves. Join up with Tide Pull at the 4th bolt to go to the same anchors. Excellent movement that far exceeds some slight choss on this route. Indiscriminate foot placement will most likely knock down some nickel and dime sized pebbles (like all the climbs on this cliff) but well worth getting on. A direct start on very fractured rock is possible.

Same start as for Schtick Your Sumb; then traverse right to the arete and finish on Emperor’s New Cloths.

The link up of Emperors New Cloths and Schtick Your Sumb.

Jump to the jug and climb the crux arete of Emperors New Cloths to get an OK shake below the roof. Finesse your way left with an interesting clip maneuver into the bouldery crux of  Schtick Your Sumb. This line is definitely a step up from Schtick Your Sumb. Super fun climbing up the boulders line of strength!

(remember to extend your first few draws!)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Emperor Boulder