I would have guessed this was 11a. It will be better when cleaned. It is one of those very fractured cracks with every bit of rock on the edges of the crack breaking off, but no really big stuff.

This would get more stars if cleaned.

Prom Night

Kissing Cousins

Here There, No Where

Geeks, Wombats and Touroids

Kosher Blow Job?

Another Sunday Outing with Bill

Squeal on Demand

Balls of Titanium

Not entirely sure what I climbed, it was 2-3 cracks west of the chain anchor on Goodbye to love. It was a double crack but too shallow to be a stem box. It could have been Flowers, Stilts, Trapeze. This would be good if cleaned, but being over the Henhouse wall, cleaning it is extremely DANGEROUS!!!

Starts in front of frangible rock, then assumes the pillar. Move up the column with a mix of balance and side pulls (or fight the thin crack) to a band of crap rock and and fantastic hands section.

Other then the choss start this is a stellar crack, well two cracks, switch from left to right crack 2/3 way up.

This was overall much cleaner then the Squeal one. There are some splitter finger and hand crack above the choss start.

This will be 3 star route when it gets cleaned up.

I did not know what this was when I tried it out and would guess it to be 10a. Once again, maybe not climbed in a long time. There is  the narrow trail that is directly above the Henhouse wall, so I was very mindful of dropping loose rock or making sure no one was below when I did. And yes barely touching stuff was flying, football sized and some larger stuff I avoided. There is a terrifying block perched on a short column mid way up that looks like it will just slide off. A good climb other then that. 4 star crack on the upper half.

This will be a 3 star route when it gets cleaned.

Starts in a frangible rock band, then moves to/through the face to a ledge. Tips with pocketed corner take you up to the next ledge. Great thin hands (+/- .75) leads to a band of bad rock then great hands to top out.

If you just want the thin hands finish, or to avoid the run out start, use Kissing Cousins' start.

*R rating is for the run out start, which can be avoided*

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bill's Wall