One of the better 5.9s at El Rito, however, it may be just a little scary for the 5.9 leader down low due to moderately long spacing between bolts. There are, however, bolts where you need them. Has a nice little overhung section, which is unusual at the 5.9 grade. Start on the arete on the right side of the wall (right next to the corridor), and move to the right through the overhang. Shares anchors with Tooth Fairy.

Crest Chewel

Helical Tusk

Primo

Balls to the Wall

Look Ma No Cavities

Blackballed

Tooth Fairy

Cool pockets off the ground pull through a lower angle bit of rock to the base of a tiny right-facing dihedral and black streak. Crank pockets and pinches up the dihedral and arete of the dihedral through the steep crux. Pop out out of the dihedral, find the hard-to-see pockets and dive up to the anchor.

Climb up six feet to a small ledge and the first bolt. Leave the ledge climbing the slightly overhanging face and arête using pockets and edges. Steeper than it looks from the ground. As with all new routes, expect some dirtiness and small loose chunks. 

Balls to the Wall is now the 2nd from the left on the Gnar Wall.

 It's hard to write good El Rito descriptions, especially for moderates. Climb the vertical cobble-y face. (Helpful?)

 Fun moves, especially up high where it gets steeper.

Look Ma No Cavities is a sport climb 20 feet uphill of Tooth Fairy, also on the left side of the Route Canal. 

  This climb is unusual for El Rito 5.10s, in that its more of a thin face route than the standard El Rito jughaul.  The crux was around bolt 3 where it got thinner, though if you deviate considerably from the bolt line, perhaps you can find an easier way through.

Blackballed is in the middle of the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

 Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs. I'm not sure if it's better to go left or right at the crux at the last bolt.

Decent route for a warm-up. Route is the first one in the corridor between Rad Wall and Gnar Wall. Head straight up to share anchors with Crest Chewel.

The Gnar Wall and Route Canal have a handful of nice 5.9 and 5.10 routes which can serve as warm-ups to get on before heading over to Rad Wall! The Gnar Wall is the wall left of the obvious cleft/canal that is the Route Canal. The Route Canal is a good place if you're looking for shade as it holds shade all day. 

Description

Protection

Routes in Gnar Wall and Route Canal