Begin the first portion of the dirty gully to a ledge on your right. From here, go up the clean face to your right at an obvious, large flake feature placing gear as you go. Approximately 20 feet of fun face climbing gets you to a top-out and tree anchor. Only one hold appears to be loose, but it didn't pull off when I used it.

Gulla Gulla Gully variation

Gulla Gulla Gully

Unknown Climb Roof Variation

Unknown

Edges and Ledges

Dirty and unpleasant gully/chimney climb to the right of the main face. Worth doing only if you like chimney climbs or want to work on some alpine technique.

Start as for the 5.8+ face climb. Once you reach the ledge, go up a ramp and pull a large, pumpy roof to gain the top of the cliff. Using a small tree trunk at the top of the roof would likely downgrade the climb to 5.8, but without it, it goes at a stiff 5.9 for the move.

In the center of the tallest face is a nice, splitter fist crack. Start up the face below the crack. Once you gain the crack, pull a small overhang to its right while placing bomber gear (large cams) in the crack. A reachy move to a left facing horn gains a ledge to rest before tackling the crux overhanging face to the top. Pumpy moves up the face will test your finger strength for the grade. Caution!!!! The best hold before the top-out is a large, hollow flake of rock below the top. It makes an obvious, scary hollow sound when tapped. It is not to be trusted, and I plan to clean it off with a crow-bar at some point.

On the left portion of the cliff to the right of a large, fractured roof is a dirty recess. To the right of that recess is a narrow, short, dirty chimney/corner. 

  Climb the recess to slopey face moves until you find a horizontal for a small, blue cam. Then trend left to the arete right of another roof. Follow the path of least resistance to the top at a nice overlook. With some cleaning, this climb will be more fun. The 5.6 moves are to get you to the first cam placement and the climb eases significantly after that. Good footwork is helpful at the start. A harder start on cleaner rock can be found to the right, but there is no pro until you reach the ledge.

A decent outcrop of rock can be found on the adjacent hill to the popular Crow Hill Ledge. The longest route goes at about 45-50 feet, and there is much loose/chossy rock. The cliff is approximately 100 feet wide and has steep faces, a couple large roofs, and a dirty chimney/ gully climb. Great care should be taken in watching out for loose rock and placing trad protection. Helmets are a must due to the rock falling potential and the fact that the mid-state trail runs across the top of the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Leominster State Forest