Start as for Pumping Harry off a good belay platform of rocks and clip the first bolt on that route. Once on the ledge, move up and clip two closely-spaced bolts (watch the z-clip potential) up and slightly left from good holds on the right. Pull a strenuous move over the bulge into the scoop full of huecos. Keep your eyes peeled for faces in the huecos as you cruise the heavily featured hueco scoop up to another short, steep section. One last final move just below the finish involves some smaller crimps before busting out a bit of mantle to gain the big ledge and the anchors.

Hueco Pareidolia

Pumping Harry

Napoleon's Angst

Pumping Huecos

The Sponge Problem

Hollywood Tim

Freeloader Friday

Sal's Neurosis

Mad Dogs and Englishmen

Head up a slab to a nice ledge and rest before the steep climbing above. Pull the first steep overhang on fantastic huecos and jugs.  Get a rest and pull the final overhanging to the anchors.

Follow the huecos up the black streak, 2nd line to the right of Pumping Huecos. Shares start with a newer climb, Hueco Pareidola. After an easy start, interesting moves between big pockets tackle a fun steep section. Watch out for a thin move pulling a bulge just below the anchors.  The original climb continued to the right to the Mad Dogs anchor from the last bolt.

Start up a slab and then navigate up a slightly overhanging arete with a variety of workable pockets. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts.

Stand start on the left side of the overhang, far left of Pumping Huecos . Make a couple of moves right to  gain the slot in the center of crack, this is the crux.

A fun route on the Sponge. Fun climbing on good holds make this a nice warm-up for the other routes on the Sponge. Named for Tim Rutherford, a very fun Los Alamos 1980s guy who often wore white leather shoes (thus the Hollywood reference courtesy of Mike Schillaci).

Bouldery route on excellent water-polished rock, located on the block just left of Pumping Huecos.   Start in the crack, pull onto a slab.  A very enjoyable compression sequence through the bulge at, and just after, bolt 3 comprises the crux.  Clip the 4th bolt, and top out to the picnic ledge.  This is followed by 2 more bolts worth of easier climbing on huecos to the Pumping Huecos anchor. Can top-rope/hang draws after climbing the latter route — in fact, this climb has been top-roped in this manner for many years.   Gets afternoon shade.

Looking at the start of this it looks alot harder than 10d (and probably is a little sandbagged).  Anyways with difficulty pull of the ground and figure out how to get to and past the second bolt.  Once past the second bolt a nice rest is obtained and easier ground up to the anchors.  On the upper section it is much easier to climb slightly left of the bolt line.

Another good route on the Sponge.  Shares a start with Hollywood Tim and then moves left through a small roof/bulge (crux) to easier terrain to the anchors above.

The Sponge is a heavily huecoed, south-facing wall containing one of the area's best routes, [[105865288. It's right off the main trail so audiences are quite common.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sponge