This route might be the best on the crag and a must do.  The opening crux will immediately test your friction skills.  If you can stick the opening sequence, you have it made... as long as you are comfortable with some healthy runouts on 5.7 ground.  Good edges lead all the way to the top with a nice mini-crux right before the anchors.  The second pitch is not as good as the first, but you are here already... might as well do it.

[Redacted]

Forbidden Dance

Route In Exile

Do Not Take The German People Lightly I Say

Little Fluffy Clouds

Busy Child

Wall Of Separation

King Of Croatia

The crux is the upper choss of this big corner.  The bolt is suspect and the rock is probably worse.  Numerous grating falls await the bold lead who ventures out on this one.  So far there has been some 5.10 climbing done above the bolt.... but then the grains took over.... Best of luck!

First pitch:  Technical slab with some very insecure moves at mid-height.  Get your best friction boots out for this one.  A nice crisp day will make the numerous high steps and rockovers seem only very dicey.

Second pitch: Follow bolts and possible runout sections to the top of the crag.

Takes the obvious line on the left side of the pillar.  Rock is fair to ok.... Be sure to move right for the last pitch or so along the ramp that breaks the summit.

Well protected slab climbing on good rock.  The start is slicker than the rest of the route.

Pitch 1:  Use the Busy Child start and then exit the chimney to the right, to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2:  Follow the left slanting and somewhat grainy crack to bolted anchors.

Pitch 3:  Clip a couple of bolts and join the last pitch of Wall Of Separation to the summit anchors.

Start in the chimney and work your way up a left leaning toothy crack that eventually goes to hand size.  Slightly burley, but all there with good pro.  Crux is midway at a slight bulge.

The first pitch follows the main slash up and left past 9 bolts to a bolted anchor.  The rock is so-so and the crux could be a combination of grain and a legitimate move or two right near the top.

The second pitch is more like 3 stars.  It busts out onto the face on better rock and follows nice edges and 9 bolts (with some possible runouts) to the top of the formation.  Bolt anchor at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lambada Dome Left