This is fun lil' tower faces the road. The crack starts to the right of a chimney cleft. Climb up easy but really dirty 5.7 to a thin crack. Go up this for about 50 feet using a 1/2" to 1" crack, near the top make a move right to some big pockets. Bring your mantleing skills and belly flop onto the summit

The Yo Hammer

Terror Dreams

Dirt in Yer' Eye

Start on the west face below obvious left facing dihedral. Shorter folks will have to nail to the first fixed pin, from fixed pin nail up to 1-2 crack, aid up this to a bolt, make a difficult mantel on the summit.

Start on the ramp at the base and find the pockets/ ledges used to mantle up. I used a #4 at ground level to prevent rolling down the hill if I blew it (I had my partner tag it up to me once I got 2 blue aliens equalized with a screamer). Start traversing up and right as pictured, hopefully finding some pro worth a damn in the process(I used a red alien in a horizontal crack in some paralell blocks with a screamer, then a #1  and a #3 or 3.5 after that). Take care above this section (for the first 1/2 for that matter) as you are climbing around and then on some scary hollow mud. Above this you get some more decent rock for some small gear like a blue/black hybrid maybe a yellow red hybrid or red alien.

Work the decent crack above the mud up and get onto the ledge at it's top.  I was terrified at this point so I threw in a 3/8 split shaft button head, as the big ledge I was on is detatched and I am looking at the crux. I drilled the hole in the best spot I could figure, and proceded to fall onto the stud (I fell 1/2 off the ledge, tipping over from the weight of the rack).

I dropped most of my extra gear on the ledge with 30 feet of slack tied to my tag line and bouldered out the crux taking only the gear I thought I could use above(I think it was like a #1 a #2 or 2, A 4 and a #3 or 2).***WARNING  move by move beta follows for most of the remainder of this paragraph*** I figured out the crux by stemming more on the wall to my left, and using some key side pulls in the OW to my left. I then could get my foot onto the slopey knob and transition all the way back over to the right hand crack. At this point (I think during or after the transition)

you can get some gear (#1?) to keep you from decking on the ledge 5-10' below.

Above is some more strait forward hands upto OW crack climbing on decent rock, turning the lip to the saddle is  kinda tough but well protected by a #4. There is a 3.5" X 3/8 rawl with a hanger and a 1/2 driven 3/8 split shaft Equalized with cordalette near the middle of the saddle for a rap point. (2 ropes get you down).

We attempted to summit the crooked looking tower but the wind was ripping.  Eric got around the corner to the slabbish side of the tower and got a button head stud to aid off, but the wind thwarted any further progress. There is a summit still waiting to be bagged up there, only 15-20 feet kept us from it because of scary fast wind.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadside Cragging