Start toward a small ledge wth a chimney at its back corner.  Don't worry, you don't have to climb the chimney!  Move left along a horizontal with small, slippery feet, before heading straight up on friable edges.  Around the fourth bolt is an obvious crux through a blank section up to the back of a roof.  Above this roof is easier, more featured climbing on sloping jugs.

Geneius

Heart of Darkness

Hazmat

Forgetful

Get a Haircut Doug

Rico's Maildrop

Tatanka

Ally McBeal

Rock Jihad

Territorial Pissings

The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors.

Five bolts of steep jughauling lead into an excellent splitter crack.

Nothing forgetful about this route!

Start on an easy layback passing the first bolt. Pull two small roofs on good holds to a bad rest. A mini crux getting over the third bolt with a long lock off or deadpoint to a crimp rail. Moderate climbing for 2 more bolts to a good rest before the business. The final 30 feet or so start with a boulder problem on small but very positive crimps ending in a slot to clip a bolt. Two more bolts of easier but still focus needed climbing to a final pumpy rest before the last few feet of NRG slab smack down at the anchors.

If you're at this crag, this climb is worth checking out.   Start at an overhanging section of white rock.  Climb up to reach the first bolt (crux).   You can get some gear in the horizontals before the first bolt.   Continue up and slightly right aiming for the second bolt.   Clip it, reach up to the ledge and traverse left to clip the shuts.

Climb up the heavily textured rock to reach the mail slots.  Reach out right to clip the second bolt.   From here, head up and right doing some cool moves to gain the top of the overhanging flake.  Clip the 3rd bolt and head up on to the slab and clip the 4th bolt.   Find a way to get through this very thin section to reach the shuts (crux).

This route has amazing movement and flow.  It's fairly continuous but most of the harder moves are near the bolts.   The first bolt is about 25 feet up at the top of the huecos.    You might find a huge stick clip here, but you can also place a stopper at the bottom of the huecos.   Climb up through the huecos and at the first bolt head left.   Find a way to reach the jugs up left and angle back right to clip the 2nd bolt.   If you can hang out here, you might be able to sling a chickenhead between the bolts.   Continue up to reach a small overhang and the 3rd bolt.   Climb straight up from here using many sloping holds.   From here keep going up and right passing 1 more bolt until you reach the shuts.

Quintessential 5.11 NRG sport climbing. Climb some crumbly rock getting off the ground to the black tar section. Traverse left under the roof to a small ledge and a stance then get ready for 50 more feet of engaging face climbing. Classic lock offs on decent edges between blank sections of rock with a crux somewhere in the middle. A few jugs scattered throughout offer some rests and keep the grade relatively moderate.

Start to the right of the first bolt, climb up and Left and enter the crux at the third bolt.  Mono, crimp rail, reach up to pinch.  Amazing.  Moderate climbing to the anchors.

Fire a quick boulder, aiming for a dish up and left, before dancing right on perfectly placed pockets. Catch a breath at a hueco, then head slightly left and wander up the face to anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Orange Wall (CLOSED)