Wander up the slab down and to the right of the cave. Fun exposure. Lowering off the route will land you well up the trail. The route can also (apparently) be continued to the chains of "Siamese Dream" (6 more bolts?)

On The Outskirts

Stretcher Case

Flubber

Hovering Mother

Toying With My Afflictions

Moreplay

Toying with my Affections

Foreplay

False Pretenses

Offspring

Corner's Inquest

Sheltered Upbringing

Cornery Bypass

Start in the cave uphill of the main corner.  Pull through the first few bolts on jugs with good feet, getting to the interesting part.  Then the feet get more difficult, the fit gets tight, and the holds start to get tougher to find and less positive.

Wild position with some possible chimney moves will get you to a (wide) stance and option to go right to stay on Offspring or left to finish on Hovering Mother.

The final moves felt tough, with slick feet and more jams than holds.  Pull right over the final lip and clip the chains.

An awkward traverse above the slabby approach leads to steep gymnastic moves.

Step through some easy moves down low on poor rock before gaining the more solid section above.  The roof kicks back sharply on mostly positive holds and has some consistently strenuous, though not terribly hard moves until near the top.  Stay right after clipping the final bolt and head for the notch to find the anchors.

Doesn't get much traffic, judging by the cobwebs in August.  It should get more after cleaning up a little.

Climb Offspring, except instead of heading right for the anchor go straight up.

Just right of the corner, pull through overhanging terrain on good holds to an anchor on the upper-left face.

Climb Foreplay, but at the top head even more to the right for the Hovering Mother anchors.

Start as for Corner's Inquest, but then before the anchors move right and merge into Afflictions

Shares the same start as Toying with my Affliction. After the fourth bolt, trend right following 3 bolts through steep terrain. Ends at the same ledge as Sheltered Upbringing.

Start as for Cornery Bypass, but continue traversing leftwards after the second bolt along an airy traverse. Rappel is free-hanging, second must recover draws.

Follow the obvious corner through a couple of moves to a low anchor

Pull through a series of fun moves on sloping, fractured rock before getting to the top with a great, exposed finish on big holds.

Start as for Corner's Inquest, but cut left to the bulging arete, cutting back right at the top to shared anchors

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (b) Motherland