"Butt Cold & Crazy" begins below the cave, 20 ft left of the start of Tethys, with a powerful, unprotected, bouldery start. From the large recess or cave, under the overhang, undercling the upper lip of the cave and climb the right leaning seam above. Continue bouldering through the cave to a 4" diameter hole and a long reach to the thank god inclusion on the left, and higher, two bomber pockets on the right (left of the seam). Once established above the cave, clip the 1st bolt and traverse up and left across the knob infested and lichen covered face to the right side of a very large square block. Continue climbing on amazing knobs (avoiding the lichen) up and slightly left to the anchor, amongst a cluster of large inclusions.

An easier (5.6) alternative start begins on "Tethys," by clipping that routes 1st bolt and traverses left, tying off a knob, and continuing left to the 3rd bolt of "Butt Cold & Crazy."

Hob Knob 'in (aka Butt Cold & Crazy)

The Shrike

Tethys

Kronos

Pangea Wall

Peregrine

Tex-Mex

Point Break

At the toe of the buttress just left of Tethys make a few harder moves off the ground with three bolt in the first 20' or so. The rest of the climb is maybe 5.7 and easier. You can either break this climb into three pitches, link two of them or just do one long pitch. If you do it in one long pitch there may be some rope drag.

The Shrike is an exciting moderate crack that ascends the crack that runs up between the Pangea Wall, on the right, and the Shrike Temple, the tall pinnacle on the left. Begin on a guano covered ledge, at the base of the crack, 70 feet above the ground.

From the toe of the buttress the separates the First Corridor from the Pangea Wall, locate the wide crack/slot feature that begins about six feet from the base and angles up to the left. Climb cobbles to reach the crack and continue to a high first bolt above the end to the crack/slot. Continue pulling knobs up the slab to a very large block as the buttress steepens into a broad arete. Here a fourth bolt is found to facilitate the transition to the left of the  arete below the block. Continue climbing up the face left of the arete to a 6th bolt on a steep knobby face. Pull the crux and continue to the anchor. Rappel from here, or climb a 2nd runout pitch through large blocks and knobs to the summit.

A vast wall of knobs and boulders. Mostly lower angle with a few steep bits. The bottom 2-0-30 feet of the wall is an overhang that would be pretty impassable. Above is easy to moderate ground. Be very careful of loose rock on this wall. This wall has had little exploration. Ratings may vary depending on line. May be easier or harder than 5.7. Mostly much easier.

Climb the overhung lower portion of the Pangea Wall. The crux is likely finding the well camouflaged bolts above the large cave at the base of the wall. Aid past five bolts to an encounter with the rounded lip of the overhang. A rounded, sloping shelf and a large melon-sized hole help with a free move to surmount the overhang and lead to a 2-ring anchor on the right. From the belay, move up and left on small knobs and pockets. As you ascent the wall the knobs get larger and more plentiful. Continue pulling knobs past horizontal seams and bulges to the anchor.

Climb the bolt ladder up the overhung lower portion of the Pangea Wall, with progressively longer reaches to a long strenuous reach to the bolt at the lip of the overhang. Bust a free move from your top step or make another aid move from a hook in the hole up and left of the last bolt. Continue on inclusions to the anchor. From the P1 anchor move up and left and climb knobs, inclusions, and the occasional pocket past ten bolts to a two-ring anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall)