A great route on the Northside of the Main Rock; especially on those crowded summer days. The route was traditionally a free solo on a climbing circuit done by Eric Kohl. Rarely done, it was lost in the pages of history until recently being equipped with bolts so the mortals among us could enjoy it. Now, a popular route and very fun line, which is a nice warm-up for some of the harder climbs, given that it requires some "pulling". Unlike the other warm-up routes in the area which tend to focus more on leg work. Traditionally spelled "Ciguapa" in Dominican folklore.

(Equipped by the efforts of; Caliza Martínez and Keel Elan)

Siguapa

Hot Tuna

Dream On

Wet Dreams

Pelicans

Scurvy

Squid Vicious

Sturgeon

Stemmer

Motion In The Ocean

Holy Mackerel

Big Tuna

Mutiny

Torque

Megalodon

Ocean Monster

Dreams of White Porsches

Moby Dick

Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster)

Mickey's Beach Arete

Scorpio Rising

Walkin' a Thin Line

Courtney

Naked and Disfigured

Sex Porpoises

Nancy

On the West (Oceanside) face, this is the route under the lower and diagonally facing roof in the center of the wall that has bolts on the roof.

Climb to and then use the crack under the roof using all the feet you can find, hanging on to the overhung rock.

Climbing is pumpy, and there are two cruxes, clipping the third bolt and clipping the top anchors.

Also note that the 'bad bolts' that older books refer to have been replaced.  The new ones work great.

After climbing the overhang on Dreams, branch right across the slab (runout!) and climb the thin, vertical face past three more bolts. The upper wall is 12+, with the final moves being the hardest. Go straight up the bolt line for full value.

This climb shares its first two bolts with Walkin' a Thin Line (5.10c).  After the second bolt, traverse right and climb up to the nearest bolt.  Continue up over a flake and bulge to an easier slab climb finish.  The crux (and only real 5.12a section) is pretty reachy, and runs between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

After the first three bolts on Courtney, this route forks up and left into a right-facing dihedral featuring juggy, but powerful, liebacking. Cryptic sequences featuring big reaches and thin fingerlocks guard the small roof at the second-to-last bolt.

Pretty nice route if you can manage to find it in dry condition. Since it starts on the lowest point on the rock, this one is very tide dependent and the starting holds are often damp. Either stick clip the high first bolt or lower from Sex Porpoises to preclip it. Awkward crux at the first bolt is followed by a great knee-bar rest and a huge deadpoint huck caps off the difficulties between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 5.11+ jugs take you to the top through the last two bolts shared with S.P.

Look for a low surf day with tide level below 1 ft and sun to dry out the holds from spray and you'll have fun on it. Otherwise, not even worth trying it.

7 bolts + chains. 10+ish climbing to the upper headwall where the business is.

Climb the corner on the main face of Mickey's Beach's North Face. This route is the second bolted route from the left, and climbs the slab up into the corner.

The section before the first bolt it quite run out but not too difficult.

There are always people on this route, so don't anticipate being able to warm up on it without having to wait a little bit!

The first bolted line to the right of the Hot Tuna/Sharkey's Machine roof on the ocean side of the main rock. Shares start and end with Gidget. An easy beginning warms you up for some in-your-face bouldery moves about 1/3 of the way up the route. Rest up somewhere before moving into the top roof, where a tough sequence of small holds, stemming and technical footwork guard the anchors. Great route!

This climb is great for boulderers.  It starts out with sidepulls and crimps to a stiff dead point to a flat hold.  Crimp like mad on the razor crimps to a three points off dyno/deadpoint to a jug.  Rest up for the final boulder problem crimping and side pulling to the obvious undercling where you'll pull on better crimps above the roof to get established on the slab.  Follow the crimps on the slab to the top.  This climb is essentially a long V7/8 boulder problem.  I think most people stick clip the first two bolts.

Big Tuna [5.12d] links Hot Tuna [5.12a] with Motion in the Ocean [5.12d].

Climb Hot Tuna and clip the anchors (both bolts) continue on mini crimps with technical foot stemming. Head right at the roof, traversing the hidden holds underneath the large run-out overhang. Perform a miraculous dynamic lunging knee-bar to a solid rest and a much-deserved bolt. Continue on Motion with more stemming and a 5.12c bulge. Finish on Motion in the Ocean anchors.

Mutiny starts up the blank-looking rock to the right of Naked and Disfigured. Cruise through really fun crimp moves for a few bolts. Then, pull a small roof up into a dihedral to get a breather. Traverse left on small feet past a tricky undercling before doing the finishing move of Naked and Disfigured. Joins with Naked and Disfigured anchor.

This is the leftmost route on the north face of the main rock.  People often confuse it for the considerably simpler corner route which is just right of it, because the route is quite simple until the top fifteen feet.

Climb up the slab using large grips and an undercling.  Clipping and moving off the tiny crimpers with tiny feet to the right of the third bolt is definately the crux, though a fall in this section is very well protected.

This gets an "s" rating because the first bolt is about 25 feet off the ground, though climbing in the initial section is probably only 5.9 or so.

Climb Sharky's Machine to the anchors of Hot Tuna on the newly installed bolts. After clipping one of the anchor bolts climb into the roof and traverse right going high or low linking into and finishing on Motion in the Ocean.

One of the better yet less travelled climbs at Mickey's Beach. A "link-up" between Gidget and Motion in the Ocean. Clip the first 4 bolts of Gidget, a new 2nd bolt has recently been added to eliminate any deck potential at the beginning. After clipping the 4th bolt from the prominent undercling, move left onto Motion to a good, in-cut  sidepull to reach great holds and clip the 5th bolt from under the big roof.  Then link back up with Gidget to tackle the final crux sequence before the anchors. Despite being a "link-up," Ocean Monster is the most logical line given that it climbs the most natural/easiest path up the wall.

The first (overhanging) 25 feet are the business of this climb. It's very bouldery with really cool and complex moves first unlocked by Harrison Dekker way back in 1987.

Moby Dick is located on the west face of the Main Rock at Mickey's.  As such, it can't be climbed if the tide and surf are high.  It sits just to the right of the right-facing corner that is Hot Tuna and shares the top anchors.  There are lots of sidepulls that provide technical and fancy climbing.  Then once you're about 8 feet below the anchors, the holds run out.  We scooted left and finished on Hot Tuna.

Gidget shares the first and last bolts of Motion in the Ocean, taking the right bolt line. After a mild (though somewhat runout) beginning, find a great midway rest below a bulge. After this, a strenuous clip and powerful off-balance sequence lead straight into the final crux of Motion. On the whole a fantastic route that is significantly more demanding than Motion, and tons of fun!!

Mickey's Beach Arete is the north-facing ocean side arete. Some reachy moves off the deck set you up for a brilliant, fun crux involving a long move to an edge.  Keep it together up the rest of the arete by squeezing and high-stepping in awesome ways. Avoid a drilled pocket on the right during the crux to make the route .14a.

Start on Hot Tuna, then pull the roof up and left at the third bolt.  Continue up the face, pull another roof, and enjoy the big moves between good holds above.

This is located on the northwest side of main rock at Mickey's Beach, sitting one route right of the main corner route (5.10b) that always seems to have a top rope on it.

Start on a slab, head up over a vertical corner and finish on some barely featured slab climbing.

This has a serious rating because it's about 20 vertical feet from the last bolt to the top anchor, and there aren't too many holds in the top section. This makes some people chicken out and head to the right to Pelicans (.12a), which has simpler slab climbing on the top, though either way is still scary.

The real crux comes after the fifth bolt. Bumping and slapping to great sidepulls leads to a massive jug. This is the warm up on this wall!

This is a classic, difficult Mickey's beach climb.  Climb just right of the Mickey's Beach Arete (5.13b), up the leftmost bolt line on the side of the rock facing straight out towards the ocean.  This route has a little of everything.  Start on an approximately 5.12a crimpy section, climb a flake, have fun with a few underclings, enjoy a few tiny crimps, and then stick big moves onto slopers until a fun finishing move.

As you're climbing this overhung route, you may think to yourself, "There are no holds ANYWHERE!"  You're mostly right.  Tough sections are until the first bolt and from the third bolt up, with the crux  lying between the 3rd and 6th bolts. Footwork is key.

Tips:To set a toprope for this climb, walk on top of the Main Rock to the side facing the ocean and rappell from the anchor located there.  As you're rappelling, descend down and right (facing the rock) about 15 ft.  You will be facing a 2-ring anchor. This is the anchor to set for this climb.

The section until the first bolt warrants the climb's "serious" rating, as it involves a dangerous fall either on toprope or lead.  Climbing to the first bolt is tough and it's very possible to fall on the sharp corner of the belayer's rock.

The belayer may get a little wet as high tide approaches; try to do this climb when the water level is low.

This is the rightmost route on the southwest face of the main rock.  To access this route, you can walk around the right side of the main rock at low tide, but at high tide it's probably best to find a path down the slippery section on the south side of the rock from the main junction that you would take to get to the top of the main rock.

This route has a little bit of everything.  Powerful pulls, balancy sections, roof sections and near vertical bouldering sections.  The route is pretty sustained, so any resting points you can find along the way should be used.

This is one of the more popular "hard" routes in the bay area, and often has people on it; at least, "often" for a 5.12c!

The most tide dependent route at Main Rock along with Courtney and a good warm up on the south/west side. Climbs Courtney for the first five bolt; then instead of continuing up Courtney, traverse right around the arete and finish on Sex Porpoises for the last two bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Rock