After an easy jaunt up to the ledge, clip the first bolt and move up and right on positive if fleeting holds. Plug some gear at your waist, and move into the fractured system that encompasses the face. A 0.3 BD can be placed in a small, vertical pod from a good stance easing the mind a bit when contemplating the accompanying gear. Using rails, crimps, and sidepulls, move yourself into position under the vertical seam where you will place your final pro. This is the mental crux of the climb as it is protected with the little stuff (C3s, ballnuts, etc...). Pull over the bulge and slightly left, and you're there. This is a fun route with small gear and fun movement.

Gotta Have Balls, Gotta Have Nuts

Back to School

Big Blocky Face variation

Basalt Assault

Here's Johnny

Ellie's Route

Big Blocky

No Gear Left Behind

9 With Some 10 Stuff

Rick Ross Big Bosch

Cool Corner

Just Stand Up

High Five

Trad Route

Cool Corner shares anchors and climbs the corner breaking right at the finish. Conquer the chossy ledge to reach the start of the corner ignoring the staring bolt for the route next door. Plug a finger-sized piece at your chest to keep you from bouncing off the ledge if you blow the first clip. Move through the corner clipping 3 bolts to the crux pulling through to a massive ledge that serves as a jug. Clip your last bolt, and use the sloping ledge to move right to the anchors.

Start in the vesicled rock, and climb quickly into a crack system with a large ledge to the right at about 10 to 15 feet. From there, you can plug gear in the tight finger (tips) crack recessed in an obtuse corner. Pull up to some ledges on the face left and rattly fingers as you tunnel back under a roof. Pull the roof to a ledge and anchors.

This is the sporty alternate ending to the pure gear line

Big Blocky

. Break right after stepping into the crack above the detached block to clip two bolts on your way to the chains.

This route starts with a tricky mantel to set up under an impeding roof. Slot a finger-size piece (maybe a BD 0.4), and pull over the bulge to a decent stance to clip your third bolt. From there, work your way up and right on thin rails and into pockets to the anchors shared with "

Here's Johnny

."

This route shares anchors with

Basalt Assault

to the left and climbs the obvious fingers corner to the right. It can be climbed using the first two bolts of

Basalt Assault

and then breaking right into the corner or by climbing direct placing tricky pro on less solid rock. After pulling through the corner, a large ledge provides a hands free rest from which you can clip the last bolt of

Basalt Assault

before an easy stretch to the anchors.

Start on the left side of a refrigerator-ish-sized pillar making a move to jugs. Clip your first bolt from the jug before the compression heavy crux standing up to good feet and hands. Plug some gear on easy terrain before the last bolt. Don't miss the sweet finger pocket to clip from!  Move up through some more demanding terrain to a hand jam and the chains.

This route moves up a brief offwidth through a small bulge on vessicled rock onto a large, detached block. From here, the crack goes from fists to thin hands with many features for a reprieve from jamming.

This route moves through two bolts, the second protecting a small roof, before entering a thin fracture on the face with good, albeit finicky gear. This route is named not for the necessity of the abundance of gear but rather in reference to the cowardice of the first ascensionist who chose to bring and place all of the gear remotely possible despite the brevity of the climb....

This route climbs through a tricky crux in a beautiful, fractured panel before a relaxed finish on lower angle rock with wide pro. While it is all gear protected, this route feels sporty and thoughtful with few jams.

This route ascends a brief but pumpy, minute, left-trending seam over a bulge before easing up for some 25 feet of good, vertical, rail pulling. The crux is moving through the first two bolts finding good positive edges and rails within the fracture.

This route is defined by the burly crux at the first bolt. Use the sidepull flake to pull yourself into an awkward position halfway through the bulge, and just stand up. From the ledge below the first bolt, it is possible to comfortably traverse over to the route next door (

No Gear Left Behind

) to the left and avoid the crux before moving back right  Perhaps this makes the route a bit contrived - stay true to the bolt line, and you'll feel the grade.

This route shares the last bolt and chains with "

Ellie's Route

" to the left. Start in a coner with a tips seem about 15 feet left of the start of "

Ellie's Route

." Make a move up to the thin fingers locker with the help of a few positive edges, and reach left to clip the first bolt. Reach way left to a good hold atop the sloping ramp, readjust, find the left hand sidepull, and clip the 2nd bolt. Now slap a hand high to the square ledge, and pull up into the finger crack and plug. From here, traverse left to join "

Ellie's Route

."

This route moves through a small, awkward roof by way of an odd ramp into highly fractured rock along a crack system with many options for feet and hands. The gear on this route is solid and not too spaced but makes for a heady lead due to the nature of the fracturing and wedged blocks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bionut Wall