Chase the arete via 10 bolts. Stemming the start changes the intent and brings the rating to 11d. Stay on the arete all the way, as intended, and it is probably 12a. This has good climbing and steep, solid granite. It is the obvious line. The exit to the chains is guarded by an awkward move, so save a little juice for the end.

Saxon Arete

The Outlaw

West Slab

South Face

Wanted Man

Chase the bolts up the steep South Face. After the third clip, the line is a bit relentless with no move easier than 11+. The end can be done either right (11+) or left in the corner (12b). The crux is the entire mid section that offers a lot of climbing in a short route. Excellent granite.

Climb the crack system past a couple of bushes to the right of

West Slab

. The crux comes as you pass a bush just after gaining a small ledge. After the crux, traverse left, and clip the last bolt and the anchors of

West Slab

.

The West Slab runs up perfect granite on moderate, well-protected terrain. The climbing is fun, mostly straightforward, and has a crux from bolts 1 through 4. Gets good afternoon sun right up to sunset. WS gives a good photo vantage point of The Saxon Arete.

Wanted Man is a terrific little route on near perfect granite. Scramble up to the ledge below the face. A few small cams may be nice for the belay, but are probably not necessary. The moves up to and through the parallel seams are just too good to be true. Too bad this is such a small crag. This kind of climbing one might wish to go on and on. There is still some lichen to brush, but if you stay out of the corner and follow the bolt line the climbing is on very clean rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Saxon Rock