Climb # 37 in the Blue Book; climbs the left-facing corner just left of the pinnacle.

Early Show

Nor'easter

Old Memories

Le Coq d'Or

Climbs Left of Nor'easter

Evil Spirits

This is route # 36 in the Blue Book. 

  Find the free-standing pinnacle.  The route Early Show climbs the left-facing corner left of the pinnacle; Evil Spirits climbs the face 5 ft left of Early Show, finishing on the crack.  

  My notes say: "Stepping left = 5.8+ RX" Sorry, the notes were made years ago [8/30/98] so I'm not sure exactly the context.

3-stars as a TR  

  Start on the face about 10 ft left and uphill from the arete. Climb the face, traverse right on a horizontal crack (Var) and up the ending crack.

 Var - "Fingerstorm" 5.9+ - Continue up the diagonal crack (FA Nichols, June 1980)

Climb # 39 in Blue Book 

  Climbs the face via a crack behind the left side of the pinnacle.  

  My notes say:" 'crux' at top, step right for 5.3. Directly up may be harder."

This is route #22 in the "Blue Book".  

  Walking along the base from climber's left you pass a scree "fan" (Ken's word) and then a cave. The "left-facing corner capped by a roof" about 35 ft right of the cave is the climb Fowl Mouth 5.6 (2-stars in Ken's book). 

  The arete a few feet further right is Le Coq d'Or.    START on the left side of the arete and finish on the right.

Nichols lists 8 climbs before Nor'easter. Starting from the far left of the cliff (and left of the scree field) they are:  

  Concussion 5.10 TR  1-star    Blast Wave  5.11+  TR   Bradley International  5.9 R 2-stars   Ides of March  5.9 R& Hooks  1-star(?)   February Fool 5.4 (the crack with black birch trees at its top)    Idiot in Heaven  5.3 R    Negative Charge  5.11+ TR 1-star (the arete on the left side of the Nor'easter face)    Ozone 5.9+  2-star

This is the northern-most crag on Bradley Mtn, thus I've named it "01___" 

  It is home to one of the few free-standing pinnacles in the Northeast. Nichols lists some 59 routes on Sunset Crag in his "Blue Book", while the 1st ed. "Green Book" has diagrams which should be helpful for locating climbs.   

  This outcrop has been climbed on since the 1930's; however, since View Road and its houses went in the area has fallen into disuse. (DO NOT ACCESS by parking on View Road.)  

  There's some broken glass from the "natives", and ratings are a bit "old School". I'd visit Sunrise rock first; much cleaner, although there are some worthy routes on Sunset.

Description

Protection

Routes in 1 Sunset Rock