The conns called this the spire splinter then Bob Kamps put a route on    it and is now known as kampsite.   This Splitter crack route faces the picket fence   Crux is in a slightly  overhanging dihedral    above easy chimney/traverse. After crux dihedral go up the notch and right to a sweet belay ledge between a false summit of 5 and kampsite.  Good pro and a fun route

Splinter direct

Kampsite

Unkown Shaffer Route

Drinking Women, Chasing Whiskey

Corner to the Sky

Beethoven's Fifth

Goin' back to Indiana

Unknown ("Route 2" from Piana guide)

Blame It On the Boogie

Enjoyable climbing up cracks and flakes, similar to Copasetic, but maybe not quite as good.  

  Climb a nice crack system passing a bolt mid height. Stay left after the bolt up juggy flakes until the crack pinches down, place your last gear and head straight up on good holds to the summit.

The Kampsite spire is the furthest east spire in the cluster between Eyetooth and the Spire 6 mass. 

  Belay from the notch between the Kampsite spire and it's neighbor to the west, a small notch with loose flakes and chockstones. You can approach this from the Spire 5 Goat Route, then climb over up and down little spires towards Kampsite until you reach the notch. Can also approach from the 5-6 gully. 

  A little ledge on Kampsite leads around the slightly overhanging north side to a good crack with old piton. Some protection there (#3 cam, smaller nuts/cams above), then runout about 30 feet of 5.4/5.6 to the top on solid large crystals following path of least resistance. No anchors, long webbing required. Double rope rappel if you go into the 5-6 gully.

A nice long adventure up the east face of the Kampsite spire, consisting of two short bouldery cruxes mixed with some fun moderate climbing. We were psyched to leave the spire bolt free!  

  Start by scrambling up the mini spire in front of the east face. Place a piece in the questionable flakes to the right of the main seam/crack. Pull onto the flakes and then traverse left into the crack with good side pulls and feet. Fiddle in some rps and figure out how to gain the good crack. A nice rest follows,then prepare yourself for another crux protected by another rp getting to and pulling the bulge above! Easier climbing through flakes until it shares the last 40ish feet of runout 5.4-5.6 climbing with the original 'Kampsite' route.

Another great, moderate route put up in the Spires. Rated E for everyone!  

  Pitch 1: (5.8) Start on the the left side of the broken column, about 30 feet left of "Blame It On the Boogie." Climb directly to the small pine tree then move out right into a continuous hand crack. Climb this crack til it ends up high and traverse left, underclinging the large flake to a cozy ledge. Bolted Anchor.  

  Pitch 2: (5.9) From the belay head straight up into nice hand/finger crack. Traverse right on good flakes to another finger sized crack tl you reach the top of the column. Once on top of the column, finish the same top out as "Blame It On the Boogie."  

  Decent: Single 70m, rappel the "Boogie" route.

Follow the flared, right leaning groove using side pulls and finger locks on the left and good crimps and crystals on the right.  The route protects fairly well but requires faith in tiny gear and sometimes creative placements.  140 feet of sustained face climbing brings you to some easier wide cracks that continue for 30 feet to the anchors.  There are no really good rests and although no real crux was apparent, almost every move felt like 5.9.  You may want to extend your placements to avoid rope drag.

The description in Piana's Touch the Sky basically says climb chimneys and cracks from the 4/5 gulley to the highest summit.  We studied the massif from the top of Spire 4 to try to decide exactly which chimneys to attempt, and then from the ground to see what looked reasonable.  In the end we went up from a higher point than expected, even above the start of Eyetooth climb.  This may not be exactly what Piana et al did in 1971 but deposits you on the summit of the highest point.  It felt a touch harder than 5.3 in a spot or two but I left it what it was in the book.  

 Chimney up and right from the base for 40 feet (see beta photo), slinging a large pillar and then downclimbing into an obvious chockstone ledge in the main chimney.  Reset a belay.  Then climb up the chimney placing gear on either side and then up and right to the right hand summit where you will find the summit register.  Bring webbing to sling a large pinnacle of rock to belay/rap.  2 60m ropes will get you back down into the 4/5 gulley in one rap, with 5 feet of rope to spare.  Knot your ends.

A new moderate multi pitch in the Spires! Easy to follow and very straight forward with rappel stations on each pitch.

 P1 (5.8): Start to the right of the fallen spire at the base of the wall. Continue up and right following series of cracks and flakes to a large ledge. Bolted Chain Anchor.

 P2 (5.9): From the belay follow the micro seam with great gear and traverse left onto the face clipping a bolt. Head straight up into the right facing dihedral until you reach yet another great ledge. Continue up and finish through another right facing dihedral/flake. Bolted Chain Anchor.

 Decent: Rappel the route. Single 70m.

mass between eyetooth and spire six   holds goat route and kampsite

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spire five