Notice the topo in Desert Rock IV. "Beyond the 80th Meridian" mostly aids up a groove system on the West side of the spires ,then goes up to the right (South) to the base of the SOUTH TOWER this last pitch of the variation was aided by that party with some of those sliders that fitted into drill holes,here the party linked onto the already established route up the actual SOUTH KACHINA Tower ..(NOTE>This is incorrectly named NORTH TOWER in the Bjorstad guide description section).  . The FA of NORTH TOWER (Incorrectly titled  THE SOUTH TOWER in the description section of the Bjorstad guide, however the topo is correct)) was climbed later in May by Ross and Ross via the same three original pitches to reach the South Tower.From here the FA party climbed and rapped to the notch between the towers (see guide)Then a 5.9 pitch passed two bolts to the large ledge below the true tower.Here the Ross party climbed the north side of the tower placing about seven bolts and cams to an excellent summit.Descent... Rap the Tower then a short rap to the gap. From here the FA party found the drill holes and rap anchors of the western variation route "Beyond The Meridian". Rap this route 180' to the ground.

Kachina Tower North

Beyond the 80th Meridian

Kachina Tower South

This route begins on the down canyon side of the fin (not visible from the parking area) and climbs to the notch between the north and south towers. Since you will probably want to climb both towers, this description also includes a trip from the notch to the north tower which was first climbed by Paul and Andy Ross and the south tower which was first climbed by Paul Ross and Paul Gardner.

To get to this route, hike down canyon past the spires. Once past them, look for a slab on the left that gains a bench that will access to the base of the route. This slab is 150 meters to the right of the route.

Pitch 1  The original route climbs the left of two cracks located directly below the notch formed by the spires. It has a sporty start and currently requires pitons down low and a lot of small cams up high. We didnt have the right gear so we climbed the wide crack on the right which wasnt too bad. There is some soft rock at the beginning but it gets better up higher. Both options end at a fixed anchor on a ledge. This rating is for the right crack. (5.8, C1+)

Pitch 2  Climb the obvious corner above the belay on questionably rock past a death flake and on to the notch. This pitch is a little spooky. (5.7 C2)

Pitch 3 (to the South Tower)  This pitch is currently a highball boulder problem on questionable rock with poor protection and  bad fall potential.  However, there are two empty holes in this face. After talking with Paul Ross I learned that the FA team had used removable bolts on this lead. Since no one carries removable bolts, it would seem prudent for the next team to carry a couple pins and fix them in the holes. (bring a hand drill in case the holes arent deep enough) After the face, continue up another short section to a giant ledge. (5.10a R)

Pitch 4 - Move the belay to the east side of the South Tower next to a giant flake that forms a squeeze chimney. This ledge system is loose and exposed in places. (Class 4)

Pitch 5  Shimmy behind the flake into the squeeze chimney and continue to another huge ledge. This chimney is small. If youre a big person, you probably wont make it. I had to remove my helmet and harness and tie the rope around my ankle just to get into it. (5.5)

Pitch 6  Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. You could combine the last two pitches if you haul up the right gear after the squeeze and watch for rope drag.(C1)

Reverse and rap the route to the notch. If youre finished climbing, continue rapping the route.

Pitch 7 (to the North Tower)  Step across the gap and climb past several bolts that lead to a ledge with a 1 bolt anchor. This is a short but fun pitch. Adding another bolt to this anchor would be a good idea. (5.7)

Scramble clockwise around the North Tower to the opposite side and the start of the final pitch.

Pitch 8  Clip the first bolt and continue with a mix of aid and free climbing to the summit. This is an engaging pitch for the grade. (5.8, C1)

Rap to the base of the North Tower, reverse the scramble and rap from the single bolt back to the notch.

First... Bjornstad's description is backwards in Desert Rock IV regarding the north and south towers.  This route is listed as "Kachina Tower North," in his guide.

This seemingly minor detail cost me many hours of route finding!  I also made the mistake of thinking the topo for "Beyond the 80th Meridian" belonged to this route.  After aiding half-way up a loose crack right of the 80th Meridian route... the epiphany came! - this route does not start at the base of the tower!

From the descent into Hell Roaring Canyon, walk downstream past the obvious Kachina Towers above.  A major wash leads up and left into a basin below the towers.  After following this wash you will be forced to hike left (south) on slickrock toward the notch between the towers (80th Meridian), or right and up toward weaknesses in the cliff above (this route).

P1: 200' 5.5.  Climb an angling ramp / crack that provides easy access to a bench 20' above you.  Once on the bench, look for a tree to belay from.  Nearly every tree has rap-tat on it.

P2: 60' 5.7.  Climb a short hand crack leading to yet another bench above.  Again, belay at a tree.

P3:  500'? 4th class - 5.7.  Traverse on the ledge you have gained toward the towers.  After one rope length, you will find yourself in a huge bowl.  Continue toward the towers. (We unroped in this bowl and hiked the obvious ridge toward the South Tower.)

P4: 50' 5.7  Climb an obvious off-width crack (4" - 7").  Belay at the top of the crack.

P5: 100' 5.8 A0.  Climb the bolt ladder to the summit.  This requires a few free moves onto ledges.  There is a single bolt and slung blocks to belay from at the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Kachina Spires