According to some people's taste, this might not be a classic. The route is essentially all wide, but it's on mostly good rock, unique setting, and just fun, easy climbing.

The climb starts in a hallway between the tower and the buttress at a fist crack.

P1:  Climb up the perfect fist crack.  The wall behind you helps make this easy and secure.  Once you climb out of the hallway, climb up the obvious OW for about 30' and set an anchor using big cams (old #4.5 and #5 Camalots work well).  If you've gone through a window of sorts and see another wide crack system, go down a few feet and set a belay, you've gone too far.  5.8, 70'.

P2:  Climb up through the "window" and wiggle/chimney up into the wide crack that splits the tower.  I love this pitch, it's almost like spelunking in a way.  For most of this pitch, the only protection you'll get are with Bigbros.  It's fairly secure once you are fully in the crack, but a #4 Bigbro is essential if you want to protect the crux of the route (getting fully into the chimney). Wiggle your way to the top and if you chose tag the right summit via some face climbing on rotten rock and down climb back down and traverse your way to the left tower.  Set a belay just below the actual summit using big cams again.  5.8, 80'.

To get down, climb to the high point, and walk across the summit to the other side of the tower, scramble about 15' down a wide crack to a small ledge with a bolted anchor.  1 rap on a single 60 m rope will get you back down to the ledge...and just scramble back down the hallway to the base of the tower.

Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell

Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You

Ale House

The devil remains... overlooked until now probably due to the fact that the summit touches the adjoining buttress. If the top pitch didn't list, this would be a very aesthetic tower. As word of the quality of this route spreads, I expect it to become quite popular. It might even take some pressure off The Creek.

P1. Climb up OW to chimney, and construct belay on same level as arch.

P2. Inspect a Jenga stack that supports the right side of OW that leads into chimney. Don't let the stack collapse while fighting upward as you would surely perish. Once in chimney, build a belay with finger-sized gear.

P3. Chimney up with sandy stems to sub-summit. You may or may not encounter opportunities for reasonable protection, but it is definitely spooky.

P4. Span across the void into a thin crack. A long reach up and left changes cracks, then move up to a garbage pod where it is possible to sling a hueco. Hand place 2 angles, and flop to summit.

Descent: do 1 double rope rap off 2 well placed bolts.

The first 15 feet is good...the rest is pretty rotten, more than usual Monument rock.

Lower from the top and rope solo, I wouldn't recommend leading this one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in D3 West Side Trail