Not sure if anyone has but it might be worth a repeat???

The belay at the top of the crux (pitch 3?) is a bit sketchy. Might be nice to put a pin or bolt there to back up the block that we used. Otherwise it was a fun adventure climb with a fair amount of good rock and junk rock alike.

link to TR here

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/83612-tr-sloan-peak-southwest-face-diamond-in-the-rough-fa-9112011/

Diamond In The Rough

Corkscrew Route

Northwest Buttress

It is the longest route on the mountain with some amazing bivi spots if need to bivi. There are a few really good pitches and a few not so good I would give it 2+ stars.

start up the left side of the broad west face, on the dark rock slightly right of a sharp crest. first pitch is funky balancy climbing on not greatly protected rock(5.8+Rish)(also watch for a loose block) heading for a dead tree near the crest. Pitches 2-4 climb up thru trees, climb a short difficult rock step that is the start of the grassy gully(wet when we did it) topped by a large chock stone.(not great climbing here) climb up behind a huge rock pillar to the ledge and begin the short terrible traverse thru small trees rightward. (luckily its short) until you can climb up fun, blocky mid 5th rock to the top of the black rock.(great bivi)  From the top of the black rock ascend just left of the pinkish, rotten rock slightly onto the northern face via easy rock, heather and small trees until you reach an obvious right facing corner/chimney (good climbing!). starts easy(5.7) and gets harder as you go with the end being on small crimps with small cams for pro (5.9+ish) Then follow the narrow heather bench rightward to the top of the steep west face(impressive bivi!) climb straight up the crux via cracks (fixed pin) and mantle onto a small sandy ledge. From here the the climbing eases going up and rightward, many variations possible from here. We exited via a nice short hand crack (8+) to gain the upper 1/3 of the mountain. scramble on 3rd and 4th class rock to sub-summit then a short downclimb then up to the main summit. IV 5.9+ It has 4-5 good pitches and 4-5 not very good ones, with much 3rd and 4th class scrambling

From the open area on the North side of the peak at 5,000-5,500 feet, ascend snow in early season or the ridge to climber's left in late season to a saddle at 5,800 feet.  Head uphill from here, staying on the climber's left of the ridge, until it is easy to access the glacier and traverse underneath the East Face of the peak.  Step off the glacier at the Southeast ridge and follow the climber's trail as it corkscrews around the South ridge and eventually up to the summit.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sloan Peak