If you bring enough pads, this thing is super classic!!! Climb some easy jugs to a flaky jug eight feet left of Under Throw. Pull the bulge with the highest heel hook you've ever seen and creep onto a thank-God undercling. The top out is slightly technical and a bit spooky, but is really the icing on the cake! This was a project in the Patrick's Point book, after finishing cleaning and sending a new name felt fitting.

Superfly (aka: Nicknack)

Ante Up

Draw

Trailside Backside

Trailside

Witness The Wetness

Under Throw

Keep Your Anemones Closer

Wet Dreams

Beta Fish

Abandon Ship

Jest left of the obvious Tidal Fight project is a big platform. Above the platform is a squat/stand start (V6) with a right hand pinch followed by a very difficult mantle where most people abandon ship. If you make it through the mantle, climb carefully to the easier, but highball finish. The sit start broke making it significantly harder and is V7/V7+

Step off the separate boulder and pull on to the wall with the arête to your left and a long reach to an undercling pinch up to your right. Bump up the arête until you can move right to the undercling (crux). The finish is classic! The landing is flat, but you’ll want plenty of pads and a spotter.

Fantastic! Start seated in the cave and pull into the undercling. Set your feet and stretch for the good crimp out left. After pulling the bulge, there are only two more holds (the last one being only a dime edge), so pay good attention to your feet and reach high for the finish! The landing is uneven, so some creative pad-work is needed to level it out. It would be five stars if the landing was a little easier to pad. The name came from the crayon graphitti at the base.

Climb through the juggy holds on the side of the trailside boulder that faces the ocean

Start on a right-leaning layback under the overhang with a precarious left toe and bust to the arete.  Power your way up and top out on positive slopers.  This route has some of the smoothest rock I've ever climbed on

Same sit start as Wet Dreams, but then traverse right. The crux is a tricky cross followed by a reachy crimp, and then it's fun slapping up good holds to the top.

Climb the blocky arete to and undercling, get high feet, then throw for the little prow at the top.  Top out either left or right. Fun and committing.

Climb the blunt northeast corner of the largest boulder on the beach. Start low with your feet on a rail, then make a series of hard compression moves up to a difficult throw. V1 top out.

Beautiful metamorphic features. Sit start, slap up slopers to a big final throw, and top out isn't exactly a gimme.

Crux is moving off the sit start and onto the face. Surprisingly fun move. Looks chossy at a glance, but the key holds are all solid.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mussel Beach