A south west facing route that sports about twenty feet of hand crack at the very beginning followed by an ass load of fairly decent 5.8ish climbing with with either shitty pro to zero pro. Go check it out if you like a good, heady solo.

Mungy Horse

Honk If You're Mungy!

Dromedary

Shake Your Mungy Maker!

Starts in the narrow stone corridor located to the left of Mungy Horse and an independent spire that might be Dromedary (more research needed to confirm the Dromedary part). Locate a thin, delicate-looking flake in the middle of the right-hand wall and stem between the two formations.  

  Plug in large to medium-sized nuts and smaller cams behind the flake. Be careful! Extend your runners and be mindful of angle of fall that your gear might experience. The flake is solid, and the climbing on it is fun, but one should always use caution when placing gear behind a flake. 

  Climb to the top of the flake, but don't stand on top of it, there is not enough room for your feet. Instead, try grabbing the top of the flake on good, deep holds and boogie your feet to the right. Reach up for hidden crimps and make a strange high step move to a bolt. Clip the bolt with a short draw and boogie to the right to a bomber ledge with a horizontal that will suck up a #2 or #3 camalot -when stuck in vertically- and extend your runner to a full shoulder length. Stand up tall and clip a bolt that protects a section of slick slab with small innocuous holds.  

  Gain another horizontal crack that has just enough of a tiny slit to slip in a ballnut or a nest of teenie-tiny nuts. Take a deep breath, this is your last piece of pro. Navigate a swamp of needy nubbins and good crimpy holds that get bigger as the angle backs off. 

  The route has a strange pre-summit formation that can be avoided by heading left, take a rest in the gizmodic, grassy gully and then climb a ladder of hulking chicken head holds to the true summit. Sling the rather ridiculously large horny formation at the summit and belay whoever else wants to join you on top. Bask in the glory of a fabulous, porno-ramic view and repel from the anchors of Honk If Your Mungy.

A well-protected mixed route with enough generously placed bolts to make it super safe. This is probably one of the best 5.8 face climbs in The Chessmen. Starts on some good five six terrain with an easy traverse that leads to a crack that sucks up a 0.4 Black Diamond Cam. Follow even easier terrain to the first bolt and enjoy a swath of great holds that seem to trend left as the terrain gets steeper. A crux in the middle of the climb requires the climber to boogie to the right and then crimp and edge their way up a couple of bolts to a ladder of honkin' holds to the top. FUN! FUN! FUN! 100% fun with just enough of a spaced out thrill at the top. Climbers who found their face climbing passion later in life will flock to this one. Be prepared to wait in line. HONK! HONK!

A wild, chunky beast that has you scrambling on a terrifying traverse where the exposure gets really real, really quick. Find good footholds and handholds amongst the choss and gain a very independent summit. For those who like to wear a diaper when they lead, this one might make you poop your pants.

A bad ass little area of walls and spires located somewhere between The Chockstone Corridor and The Sea Horse. If you take the old mountaineers trail between The Chessmen and Mt. Dallymore and can locate Breaking Wave, the corridor to the climber's right (north east) of Breaking Wave will lead you right to it. The area contains a rather good assortment of fun, safe climbs with plenty of bolts along with some heady routes with very little to no pro for those who like to get their Rated X freak on.

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Location

Protection

Routes in MungeSkinLand