A great route, but, no beginner lead and quite possibly x-rated (R+ in the guidebook).  Blowing it to the first and/or second bolt would have severe consequences.

That said, fun climbing. Classic Pinnacles.

Lean over, start up the committing moves to the first bolt, and keep a darn cool head.  Or, TR it by climbing another route to the summit plateau.

Direct Route

Hot Lava Lucy

Northeast Face

Regular Route

Hawaiian Noises

Übermensch

Richnak's Revenge

Feed the Beast

Wave Rider

P.O.D.

Piton Traverse

Lodestone

Tailspin

Cantaloupe Death Direct

Hard Variation

Foreplay

Cantaloupe Death

Subterranean Tango

This is a good route in the middle of the Monolith's east face.  It has 2 starts.  You can go from down below and make it 11a or you can start above skipping the first 2 bolts.  If you don't go down into the subterranean bit, it goes at 10a or so.

Follow an appealing face with neat, embedded rocks protruding from the matrix.  Pass 7 or 9 bolts.  There is a runout bit near the top above the last bolt.

A 25-30 ft boulder problem leads into the top half of Cantaloupe Death (5.10 climbing). Probably want to "stick clip" the first draw as its not a great spot to fall off.

An historic and enjoyable route.  Climb the first pitch of the Regular Route and belay. The first, short, pitch of this route traverses right(north) on the ledge to the corner at the junction of the east and north faces where there are three bolts for a belay.

The second pitch climbs directly up the corner past one bolt to a two-bolt anchor on top of the Monolith.

To descend, walk over to the east face and descend via one of the multiple anchors on this wall.

Classic Pinnacles climbing.

Locate the start, which is the most moderate looking face climbing protected by two lead bolts.  The route takes a sharp right, pass another bolt, and turn the steep corner into a belay stance.  Fun pitch, with great position.

Ramble up the short and easier second pitch, clipping a couple bolts, enroute to the summit plateau.  Anchor is located on the NE corner of the summit boulder.

This is a nice, little sport route between

Post Orgasmic Depression

and

Subterranean Tango

.  It ascends a nice face with embedded rocks poking out of a matrix.

The guidebook notes it was originally led going to the 2nd bolt of Indirect Traverse.  Done this way, it is a bit of climbing to the 1st pro.  It can be done going to the 1st bolt of Indirect Traverse.

There is a reachy section mid-height and a runout going to the anchors.

Any ideas about the origin of the name?

A Chris Sharma 5.14a

Ubermensch

from

Kyle Queener

on

Vimeo

.

Follow the bolts up and left past a straightforward but slighlty overhanging and pumpy lower section. The crux is a tricky overhang just left of the bolts, followed by easy slightly run-out climbing to the anchor.

A bit of a one-move wonder but it's a fun overhang.

The crux is getting to the second bolt. Short but stout. One of the best 5.11s at Pinnacles National Park.

Fun traversing climb through great knobs, crossing a few routes above a steeply overhanging face below. Not good for beginners, due to pendulum potential. A really fun way to get to the summit boulder problem. Make sure and boulder up and check out the summit register!

This was the first roped climb to top out on the Monolith and was done only with a few pitons(where?). It follows the path of least resistance up the east face.  It's ascent has been confused with the first ascent of the Direct Route.

This is a Pinnacles classic.  Odd name.

Ascend an aesthetic, vertical face on small embedded rocks in a conglomerate face.  Ascend a small right-facing dihedral.  Pass 7 bolts with the crux being above the 4th bolt.  3 bolts anchor.

Another historic, classic Pinnacles climb!  Start from the top of the first pitch of the Regular Route and do a short traverse to the right to the junction of the east and north faces and find a three-bolt belay.

The second pitch climbs a rising crack past several fixed pitons(AKA museum relics) to the top of the Monolith and a two bolt anchor. So much fun!

Climb up the slightly-overhanging lower section to the overhang on good holds.

After the second bolt, angle right using a large side pull and throw a big right hand to the large rock protruding just below the overhang. It's easily big enough to hang with two hands (though can be slippery). Pull over the overhang on this, grabbing whatever you can above it until you can mantle over it. Can be mossy/dirty right above the large block hold.

Easy climbing to the top after this spectacular crux.

Clip the first bolt of Foreplay and continue left traversing for four bolts before heading straight up to the anchor following three more bolts. Some loose rock can still be found but the key holds are solid enough.

Pre-clip the first bolt from the boulder, and then start from the ground just left of the starting holds for 'Hot Lava Lucy". Cool lock offs on small knobs for 20 feet connects back into "Cantalope Death". A spot is nice to stop a swing in the event of a fall near the start.

Start in the Regular route. Past the 3rd bolt on the ledge, move directly up and to the left instead of continuing to the right.

This is a steep climb, described in the guidebook as "spectacular" which certainly draws the eye.  It seems to climb steeper than it looks.

Ascend a slightly-overhanging face past 8 bolts.  The guidebook notes it was originally climbed without the first bolt.

Very fun lean-across-and-swing leads to some of the best pinn's knob pulling. The lean-across may seem intimidating, but after committed is easy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face