Start up on a little shelf left of the tree filled gully, just left of Los Amigos. Follow a finger size crack till it stops then transverse left and up to a table size ledge. Climb off the right side of the ledge looking for a bomber BD #3 horizontal placement. Climb strait up to the top of the cliff band one bolt belay at the top. Walk off or rapp Los Amigos or The Worm.

Transverse  to Heaven

Modern Day Cowboy

Joy of Cooking

Young Life

Corner Pocket

The Womb

The Worm

Los Amigos

Little Jon

Antsy Pantsy

Tail Eater

Mouthfull

Baby Business

Liken It

Rough Rider

Aaron's Arete

Cujo

Alpha Dog

5 O crack

The Arborist

The Open Book

Impossible Dream

Bleeding Edge

This may be the coolest route on the cliff! Starts in the middle of the far left blank wall and takes good holds to the chains. Trends left from start to finish. Great movement!

This route is just right of the off width right facing corner. it starts in a thin crack and pulls the roof on cruxy crimps then on to jugs to the chains.

Start in a right facing dihedral that angles out right after the 4th bolt. Climb on top of the ledge and it goes 5.7 stay on the right face and it's a bit harder. 5.9ish.

Corner Pocket is just left of Liken It. The 1st bolt is in the middle of 2 vertical cracks. This is really a cool climb! It climbs deep bomber pockets to a really cool heel hook/toe scum that allows you to get through the over hung crux. Hang on!

It climbs the thin finger crack to the left of Corner Pocket to an alcove that heads up and out the giant roof to chains.

climb a wide crack  in a giant left facing dihedral on the left side of the exit gully. Starts in a tight chemney with a hand crack in the back, then turn a bulge and worm your way up the chest width offwidth. Two bolts will be added soon to avoid bad falls.

Start in the hand crack then traverses a horizontal rail to a shallow dihedral that leads to the chains.

Three distinct cracks split the wall to the left of the womb. This route takes the middle finger crack past two bulges to a roof and then the chains

Start on great jugs and head out right past a small roof to the chains.

This route was originally done on gear but each placement may or may not have held a fall and had  ground fall potential. This past year 5 new sport routes went up by a phantom climber. Mouthfull was one of these routes and is now a safe fun sport climb.  Starts in an obtuse right facing corner to a roof, follow bolts to the chains

Starts with a bouldery lie back to a finger crack in a small dihedral climb past bulges and a roof, or skip the hard start and start off the shelf to the right

climb arete to overhang follow bolts to the chains walk off or lower.

easy climb for begining trad leaders   Lots of liken in the chimney or stay left in small crack and hang a right to the chains

Barn doorsy arete climbing past  three bolts with great clipping stances, to hand crack to the chains.

Obvious crack in a right facing dihedral to a roof

Climbs fingers to hands with bulges and a roof shares anchors with Little Jon

This the best looking natral line at the crag! It's a right facing dihedral that arches right to a wide hands roof, to the chains.

In my route names they are almost always related to something going on in my life. Baby Business was put up when my first son was in the womb, thus the womb as well… impossible Dream is the same. I’ve eyed this line for years. Saying one day I’ll put it up. One of the best things of my life ended that day and I was feeling I need a distraction. So on a whim I ran up to Payson to give it a go and I sent it after a couple warm up tThe first thought that came to me was Impossible Dream.   The ironic thing is that I actually did it, so lesson learned. Nothing is Impossible if you can Dream it! ID Follows horizontal rails out, pulling the lip to chains. Only one draw needed at the start then the rest are permadraws to the chains just past the lip.  Enjoy making the impossible possible!!

Clip bolt #1, then start into the techy V4ish slab crux which will be much harder the shorter you are. It's not necessarily an easy read, but with the proper footwork and hold selection, you will make it to the "bookmark" crimp, at which point you are ready for a balancy lunge to the horizontal.

 Once you reach this obvious breather, continue up through the bulge and under the small roof, clipping the 2nd bolt of Los Amigos (your 4th).

 Eye the leftwards fingerwalk, conspire to clip the 5th bolt, and gather yourself for the final showdown with the slightly overhanging headwall on edges, ledges and crimps.

 Top out with an airy mantel on a jug ~10-15 feet above the final bolt (how many climbs do you actually get to top out the cliff?!).

 Named for the Pynchon novel (you're at the library, after all).

Easily accessed from the SR 87 by parking on the east side of the road just south of the bridge. Head up loose embankment and follow ridge line to the base of the crag. Or access the top by Flowing Springs Rd 1/2 mile south of the bridge again on the east of SR 87. Use the parking area on the left just as the road turns right and heads down to the river bed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Library