Elephantiasis was once home to a beautiful 3-pitch trip up the trunk & forehead of the elephant.  There were 4 alternate first pitches, each of high quality and a very different nature.

Sadly, the McNally Fire of 2002 did significant damage to the rock.  As of Summer 2004, major rockfall hazard made these routes unclimbable.  Proceed with caution.

PLEASE POST UPDATES TO THE CONDITIONS ON THESE ROUTES.

Elephantiasis

The Tusk

As of 2004, this was among the only climbs free of loose rock.  It is also perhaps the best crack climb on the formation.

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south side of the dome.  Traverses up and right and turn the corner of a blunt arete (5.6).  Climb a finger & hand crack left of a pine tree (5.7).  At a horizontal break, move left and climb a steep fist crack to a sloping ledge (5.7/5.8 and FUN).  Belay takes small stoppers & TCUs.  Rappel the gully to your starting point from slings around a chockstone.  The gully itself can be downclimbed at awkward but easy class 5.

Adventurous climbers may wish to continue up one of three short but sweet fingertips cracks (5.10+).  Rappel from slings.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Elephant Knob