This route is a direct finish to Freeway.  From near the end of the ramp, climb straight up a scary, aesthetic knobby face with thin cracks for protection.  The 60 foot length is if you belay at the base of this finish.  Otherwise, it's about 150 feet long.

Totally Nuts

Unknown

Anacram

Pretty Gritty

Sig Alert (aka Cast Up a Highway)

Nobody Walks in LA

Junkyard God

Freeway

MetroLink

The Talking Fish

Unknown route 2

Cakewalk

Meaner than a Junkyard Dog

This is the namesake route for the wall.  It is an insecure wide chute and thin face.

This route starts up an easy slab to vertical flakes on the left and then face climb to an undercling neat crux before moving back right to a great hand jam crack for the finish.

History, FA or route name info please PM me.

Start about 20' left of

Cakewalk

(5.8) by climbing past a solitary bolt into an arching, left-facing corner. Higher, steep and enjoyable moves lead past another bolt into a thin crack which leads to the top.

A great route which should not be missed if in the area, this climb will leave a favorable impression on you. Three stars out of five.

The first 20-25 feet are a little friable and not very well protected but definitely below grade.  The first descent piece is a 4" in an odd runnel.  After that the protection improves considerably.  If you're into off widths, this climb is definitely worth a go.

Start by

Nobody Walks in LA

(5.9), at the yucca beneath the roof. Climb up to the right-hand end of the roof then pull and step up and left onto the face.

Face climbing leads to the crux, a steepening which yields to bouldering moves, above this the face relents to gain the bolt anchor.

A fun climb which contrasts nicely the crack climbs on this face.

Originally a TR which went up the left side of the roof at 5.11a.

This route starts left of

Anacram

(5.10c) at a yucca below a small roof.

Climb up to the overlap, and the corner beyond, then cross a slab and tackle a short steep section. Climb the crack above to the roof line. Cross this on the left and head up a thin, steep crack, this eases to become a chimney.

I should have known better than to get on a route with the name 'junkyard' in it, and no stars assigned...but it was late in teh day and we wanted to do one more pitch - this was close to the walk off.At the upper right end of the W. Face of Freeway wall, you can see a L-facing dihedral formed by a pillar. Just left of this lies a decomposing crack system that can be climbed to the top, with reasonably hard moves next to the reasonably questionable gear.  Nobody should be that despirate for another run in J-tree.  Go do something nice instead.

Fairly continuous with enjoyable movement throughout it's length and easily top-roped from the bolted anchor atop Sig Alert. Two stars out of five.

Mistakenly listed as Gridlock in the Joshua Tree West guidebook.

This fine route is located near the far right end of the Upper Freeway Wall, and begins about 10 feet right of Cake Walk. Though not given many stars in the past (and thus mostly overlooked), it is definitely worthy of attention (maybe 3 of 5 stars). As good as Anacram and of similar difficulty.

From the get-go, interesting face climbing next to seam (5.10c) is protected by 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro). Past here, easy climbing up a left slanting crack leads to a bulge. Here the crack changes direction again (leaning a bit right). The transition above the bulge involves a few difficult moves (5.10c). Easier climbing up the flared crack; save a couple 1.5 to 2.5 inch cams to provide possible protection. A fairly long enjoyable pitch.

Downclimb the east face (behind the top of Cake Walk) then head down a rocky gully until you can traverse around the south side of the formation and back to the base.

Start up the small layback into the wider chimney above. There is good pro and jams.

It is also possible to start this route from the small buttress on the right and traverse in 15 feet up. Slightly easier that way.

History, FA and other additional info please PM me.

Cakewalk climbs an obvious crack on the south side of Freeway Wall, fairly high up the gully before reaching the highpoint of a small pass.

Climb the nice thin hand crack up to where the wall steepens and the crack thins.  Traverse left a few feet to a juggy hand crack going over a small overhang.  Head up and a bit right on the crack as it goes from hands to fingers to fist.

This is a nice sustained pitch.  Pretty easy for 5.9 - this is a good lead for those breaking into 9.

This route is no better, nor no better protected than it's namesake, Junkyard God. The rock is somewhat crumbly in several spots (although the runout face up top is fine).

At the upper right end of the W. Face of Freeway wall, you can see a L-facing dihedral formed by a pillar. Climb straight up to the dihedral formed by the pillar, then up on top of it and right around the arete to the South face and continue upward to the top of the rock.  The last 8M are runout, but on good stone. In reality, I am just documenting the line, not recommending it. I don't know what got into me - nobody should be that desperate for another run in J-tree.  Go do something nice instead.

Description

Protection

Routes in Upper Freeway Wall