AKA:

Destination Unknown

. This is a really fun clip-up with varied, high quality climbing on edges and slopers.  P1 starts with clipping a bolt and then some sinker hand jams for a few moves to gain a small bulge.  Traverse left and onto the arete with a fun, defined crux.  You can combine P1 with P2, which is bouldery, easy .10 slab and edge climbing up to a nice belay ledge that gets late afternoon shade.  P3 has tightly spaced bolts in a shallow dihedral to an arete with a killer softball sloper.  This pitch is fun, hard .10 insecurity way off the deck.  The first and last pitch are really fun and the rock is bomber.

Lakeshore Loon

Adrenaline Junkies

While the name of this line is typically something you'd hear from Grandma when she talks about your climbing habit (or a KSL news anchor reporting on any number of "extreme" sports), you'd be foolish to expect a tame adventure. The climbing has a typical Ibex feel (thin, funky, exposed) and the Bronze Age hardware keeps things spicy!

P1. Start in an alcove below a steep bolted dihedral. Scramble to a pin then commit to steepening moves on worsening holds to get over the first of many bulges. A ridiculously wide stem maneuver seems mandatory: you might split your crotch but at least you're clipping bolts. Slightly easier climbing past more bulges protected by amusing fixed antiques (and the gear you should have brought) will deposit you at a two-bolt anchor. 5.11a, 35m.

P2. Intricate face moves off the belay lead to a beautiful arete sequence protected by a bolt and a pin. No stemming to be found here, just battle the arete then shuffle right, surmount a tricky bulge and take a deep breath when you get to a perfect ledge. Don't get carried away and keep going, there's a bolted anchor to the right. Solid 5.11, 15m.

P3. From the belay traverse back left to the bolt and shoot up the spur feature clipping the occasional bolt. Stay on the spur until a pin appears then commit to a few bulgy moves on less than inviting rock to get to a last bolt (stemming to the left is appealing but not recommended: you'll find a crack and gear placements but also a bunch of loose flakes and choss). Wander up and left to reach a crack (those quickdraws don't work too well in there) and top out. 5.10c, 20m.

Collect a piece of what's left of the anchor rope for your tat collection. Try not to pull on the pin, it's already coming out on its own.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Syringe