Thirty feet to the right of the Cadillac Crack is a 15-foot pedestal of white rock leaning against the darkly varnished face.  Climb up and left from the top of the pedestal to a narrow catwalk ledge.  Move left along the ledge until it is possible to climb up to a small left-facing dihedral.  Follow this upward until it joins Cadillac Crack in the alcove below the final chimney and hand crack.

Dark Arts

Rita Skeeter

The Fright of the Phoenix

Azkaban Jam

The Chamber of Secrets

Moaning Myrtle

Basilisk Fang

Diagon Alley

The Dementor

Get Rad

First Grader

Falling Rein

Back to Basics

Cadillac Crack

At the very base of the Whiskey Peak descent gully, on the south side, is a clean offwidth crack in a right-facing dihedral.  Climb the offwidth past a small overhang to an alcove, then chimney and jam a handcrack to a large ledge.  Rappel with 2 ropes. 

  Historical note by Larry DeAngelo:  I was researching history for Red Rock Odyssey at the time of Randal Grandstaff's death in 2002.  His widow, Laura, graciously allowed me to sift through an entire trunk of slides and photographs that Randal had taken.  Among them was a picture of the the striking Cadillac Crack that had been taken in January, 1975.  At the time, Randal was at the beginning of what was to become an illustrious climbing career under the tutelage of local master Joe Herbst.  In light of Joe and Randal's friendship, and Joe's affinity for wide cracks, it is inconceivable to me that they did not climb this route.  The name was given by me, inspired by Randal's Chrysler Crack (this one is a nicer ride!).

Immediately to the right of the Azkaban Jam, climb a steep varnished face next to the sharp arete.  Protection opportunities are limited.

At the far eastern end of The Rad Cliff is a dark buttress featuring knobby varnished rock.  Start on an obvious ledge that is easily reached by a variety of class 4 or easy 5th class options.  Climb on knobby rock with all natural pro for a long pitch.  There are many options for the exact route, but they all seem to be of reasonably the same difficulty.  In general it seems that farther to the left the rock is more solid but the holds are a little smaller.  From the belay, you can climb down and right (class 4) to the catwalk leading to The Dementor rappel, or follow easy rock up to the top of the buttress and scramble down and left. 

  The "fright" in the route name refers to a terrifying section of precariously balanced, darkly varnished plates encountered on the first ascent.  Subsequent disassembly of the threatening obstacle has left a fairly sound and aesthetic climb.

At the eastern end of The Rad Cliff is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side.  Climb straight up the crack.  Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up.  When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face.  The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of The Dementor.  A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.

Larry DeAngelo really found a gem when he began developing The Rad Cliff, which lies to the climbers right as he/she is descending from Frogland. The Cadillac Crack is the most obvious climb from the descent and marks the beginning of the cliff. 

  The Chamber of Secrets can be found by following the cliff to a huge, low-angle, right leaning offwidth/chimney crack. Just to the right of this is the start of the route. 

  Pitch 1: Head up the gully to the base of the chimney. Ascend the vertical chimney to a nice ledge with good pro. 5.6, 100' 

  Pitch 2: After a somewhat interesting start (crux), one of the best handcracks in all of Red Rock appears, which is followed until you can step left onto a ledge. Walk 5' left and belay near a tree. 5.7+, 100' 

  Descent: Downclimb about 5' to a rappel station and rap once with two ropes. This amazing rappel takes you down Larry's testpiece- The Dementor.

Twenty feet to the right of Azkaban Jam, and immediately to the right of the arete of Rita Skeeter is a deceptive dihedral with a few jammed blocks. Easy climbing leads up to an impasse. The exit move left requires a verrrry long stretch. If you are less than 6'4", this move is much harder than 5.9. On the first ascent, this section was protected by blindly lassoing a horn. Climb into the wide crack above and follow it to a big ledge.

Pretty good climbing starting on the left side of the formation, then trending up and right. There are some fragile edges and fins that will wear away with a few more ascents. The rock is generally sound and the climbing enjoyable.

Immediately to the right of Dark Arts is a right-slanting crack.  Follow this to a large ledge with a bush.  A short class 4 pitch will take you to the rappel point atop Cadillac  Crack.

About 60 or 80 feet to the right of Azkaban Jam is an ominous triangular cave.  This route climbs all the way into the back of the cave, then chimneys out to the lip. 

  Pitch 1: a short 4th class pitch leads to a belay spot just below the cave. 

  Pitch 2: jam the crack on the right, all the way into the back of the cave.  Chimney down and out toward the lip.  One or two hand-size cams can be placed near the lip.  Jam out and set up a hanging belay just outside (to minimize rope drag).  This is a bad pitch to fall from; even the second can take quite a swing and find themselves in prusik country. 

  Pitch 3: A short pitch leads up to the big ledge. 

  Rappel the route.

Get Rad follows the awesome right-leaning splitter wide crack at The Rad Cliff.  Inside the crack you will discover quality clean cut stone with very few features. Squeeze climb for about 75' before the crack forces you to exit onto slightly easier terrain.  Then continue up the great hand crack/flare of The Chamber of Secrets to finish.  This is an adventurous crack climb with a little something for everyone.

Immediately to the right of Back to Basics is a slanting finger crack.  Follow it until it ends,then wander up and right to another crack, which leads to the belay bolts.  Don't be fooled by the mild rating and innocuous name.  This is not really a beginners' route.  The protection is limited and you have to work a bit to get it.  A single 60-meter rope is enough for the rappel.

Climb the face around the corner to the left of Cadillac Crack.

Near the top of the Whiskey Peak descent gully, on the southern side, is a good-looking right-facing dihedral.  Climb the dihedral to a bolted belay station.  Contrary to some reports, a single 60-meter rope is enough for the rappel.

This is the band of rock just south and east of the Whiskey Peak descent gully.  The climbs here are generally one-pitch traditional routes.  The Cadillac Crack is a beautiful route that would be a classic anywhere, and there are several other good quality lines.  The rock is shady in the afternoon- perfect to top off the day after a climb on Whiskey Peak.Most of these routes use a 2-rope rappel for descent.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Rad Cliff