Begin climbing at the base of an enormous flake, to the right of the crack. Layback the edge of the flake and utilize features on either side of the flake. The line moves left and climbs onto the flake near the 3rd bolt. Work up the face on features and the odd pocket,

AVOIDING THE GUANO COVERED FLAKE,

by trending up and right to the anchors.

Buzz Worthy

Debbie Does Dallas

Cowboy Coffee

Texas Schoolbook Depository

Buzz Killer

The Mighty Quinn

Three Legged Dog

Starts in the corner, a couple of layback moves get you up to the 2nd bolt. After clipping the 2nd bolt, head out left onto the overhanging face. A tricky cross over to a bolt, a sharp left hand single crystal to a right

hand slopper and a bolt. Left hand to a small gaston horn and a difficult move (crux) to a right hand undercling, up to a jug rest and a bolt. Big move right to a block and straight up on smaller holds to a hole. Big moves on jugs to the left and then back right to the fixed anchor.

Debbie Does Dallas climbs the shallow corner between Buzz Killer and Mighty Quinn. Begin moving right to left up the slab to the first bolt where the angle increases. Stem the corner on cobbles and edges and the occasional pocket. Continue past a very large cobble and smooth rounded features avoiding as much of the raptor feces as possilbe to reach and clip the chains.

Pull the difficult moves, on tiny holds, below the bulge to a bomber incut, then surmount the bulge on small positive features to the upper headwall. As the angle eases the features get larger and the terrain becomes more knobby to the anchors. "Cowboy Coffee" climbs some of the best rock at Texas Canyon.

The first move to get off the ground is the hardest of the climb (I was happy to stick clip the 1st bolt)... That does not mean it is over. There are plenty of challenges along the way on this long journey to the anchor. Delicate and technical climbing for the most part on a rock quality that is better IMO than in most other areas at Texas Canyon.

Boulder up under the bulge at the base of the blunt arete between Debbie Does Dallas and the Grassy Knoll. Palm the arete and pull up into a deep 4-finger pocket. Ride the arete and onto a large smooth reddish bowling bowl-sized stone embedded in the arete. Continue up on small incuts of the face and palming on the arete. Climb edges and cobbles up the right side of the arete to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Dallas 40