Locate the small seam cliff left of 'The Balcony'. Great protection leads to a small alcove with a cresant shaped dihedral/crack. Follow the cresant crack up and cliff right while following the crack system.

After further inspection from the Backside Trail I found that there is a more dominant crack feature cliff left of the cresant dihedral/crack that slices Middle Finger Wall all the way to the top. From the cresant you climb cliff left instead of following the crack system up and cliff right.

Look up and locate a tree on a ledge. Once on this ledge the anchor for the balcony is cliff right on another ledge or you can climb past this tree to the bush up above to get to the tippy top of Middle Finger Wall.

Make sure to use runners, especially if you decide to traverse cliff right and up to The Balcony anchor. You can also break this wall up into two pitches but where is the fun in that?(kidding)

The first half of this route protects very well. It starts to get a bit chossy right before the tree ledge (I slung some chicken heads near their bases). Otherwise the climbing isn't too physically hard but the rock quality and exposure keep things a bit spicy!

Rerouted

Middle Finger

Pillar Passage

Iron Curtain

The Balcony

Pocket of Like'N

Flexible Flyer

Connect The Cracks

High Five

This route is on the TOPO of the Kelley Guide as a (5.5) but no name is listed. The name is temporary until the original name is found out.

Same start as Rerouted but instead of following the crack system cliff right at the halfway point, you step onto a face cliff left under a right facing flake.

This is definetly the crux. The climbing is easy, the gear is not straight forward. Trying to find the deceptive gear options can be mental and pumpy. Above the right facing flake is a huge ledge with awesome protection near by.

The climbing continues to be physically easy and the protection become a little more obivious. A great warm-up route.

I liked this route a lot more than THE BALCONY.

Casual face moves and a few OW/Chimney type moves get you up to the top of the route.  The top of the route has some very sharp rock with many loose holds.

Locate a small seam cliff right on the ledge just past the starting point of 'The Balcony' but before 'Iron Curtain'.

Climb up the small seam that protects well and leads to a ledge. Then continue onto the crack/dihedral to stand on a second bigger ledge leading to the pillar/flake.

Continue to follow the seam behind the pillar and either face climb or chimney up this feature. The seam continues up the face but due to the quality of the rock I followed the flakes cliff left of the seam.

Find mental strength and climb past the flake above the pillar and on to a ledge. Either climb up past one more small section of climbing before you reach the top of Middle Finger Backside or traverse cliff left to the anchor for 'The Balcony'.

Make sure to manage your rope drag with runners especially near the top!

Locate a small roof on the cliff right side of MIDDLE FINGER WALL. Start directly under the roof.

Climb the face leading to the roof. Pull the roof and follow the right facing crack.

I would say the crux of this route is the face before the roof and then pulling the roof. Good holds above the roof [if you can't pull the roof you can bypass it from the left (harder) or right (easier)].

Near and above the big ledge aka " The Balcony"

Scramble the crack left of Iron Curtain or climb the face to the ledge where the dihedral(high five) starts.

From "The Balcony" locate the dihedral cliff right.

A fun corner with protection options. Stemming, face climbing and creativity will gain you access to the top. As is with most of this wall, the rock quality is the mental factor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 11. Middle Finger Wall