Pockets, huecos, underclings and sidepulls. A nice collection of holds and moves.

Pocket Full of Huecos

Quit Yer Blubberin

One-eyed Jacks

Baby Whale

Central Corners

Gray Wails

Just plain fun. Jugs and good rests separated by delicate moves. Strong 2 star in my book.Name comes from 3 old guys (JBak, EFR and John Steiger) hanging around the base of the route bitching about their knees, hips and backs.Steiger published the first guide to Mt Lemmon back in 1985.

A decent face climb.  It's been a while since I've done it. Might only be 5.10 according to one of my partners.

 Morning sun.

Climb up the pillar-like left edge of the big-ish right-side cave. Head up to the right-slanting crack and the eye-socket. Surmount the bulge and then come back left.Route name comes from the big (and awesomely sculpted) eye socket found at mid-height. It is also the name of a classic Brando western.

Yes this tiny route is goofy looking at only 24'6" from ground to anchor.  But you might be wailing as you try to figure out the opening sequence.  It is slightly overhanging and there is action all the way to the anchor.  Think of it as being like a harder Steve's Arete without wasting time doing the easy stuff at the start of Steve's.

 It is tempting to rate it 5.12-, but I can't quite do that.

 Stick clip of 1st bolt is okay, maybe even recommended.  But pre-clip of 2nd is cheating.

 Shade until 2pm.  Super easy to set up a TR on this route.

Mellow start leads to a crux section with underclings, jams and lie-backs. Then cruise up cool scoops and fins.Rock is fractured looking down low but climbs okay and will clean up.

There are 6 completed and FAed routes. 5 are on the main SE face and one is on the tiny NE face of the lower crag (Baby Whale - 5.11+).Crag faces southeast, so morning sun and early afternoon sun. If it is 75 and sunny in town, the OTH lower crag will be just about perfect.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Crag