This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life.  It doesn't appear to get climbed much.  The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1.  Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack.  Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge.  Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft)  P2.  Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner.  Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top.  (~90ft)

Descent:  Walk off.

Initial Route

Green Slab

Pooh Belly

Energon Cube

Unknown Face

Pontiac

Civic Minded

The Buick

Yo Mama, Osama

Beamer Up Scotty

This short sport route is on the second buttress of Buick Rocks, ie above and left of Hitler's Sex Life formation (which is lower on the hillside to the right) and the right of the two Buick Rocks. This line is high on the right side (SW) of the second buttress, between two trad lines

Pooh Belly

(5.7 on the left) and Kiss Face (5.10b? on the right). A few tricky moves off the ground are protected well by the first bolt, but the climb remains fairly sustained through the third bolt.

This is a very fine route.  The rock is the second small buttress to the left of Hitler's Sex Life,  identified by a steep slab that is slightly tilted to the right, and about 100 yards up the loose trail from the road. Four well-spaced bolts lead up and right on crimpers to a chain anchor.  The first bolt is a bit off the deck and is a tip-toe reach from the stance (for me at 6'1").

Descent:  I ran the rope through the anchor and lowered off, but it might be best to belay from the top and walk off to avoid rope drag.  Also, the route would have to be climbed twice to clean it so keep this in mind.

This fun, short crack will challenge those who haven't heard of the art of jamming. The beginning is a short section of solid handjamming followed by fists with plenty of facey options to finish. Watch for loose rocks, especially at the top. Walk off around the top and right.

Energon Cube has a surprising mix of good and bad for a short pitch, sometimes killer hand jams, sometimes crumbly kitty litter, sometimes at the same time!  If the rock quality were better, this aesthetic route would climb much better.

When looking up at the Second Buttress of the Buick Rocks, Energon Cube follows the colorful flakes trending right across the face, on the right side of the prow.  Most of the climbing follows corners and cracks along the flakes, eventually passing around a bulge to the right at the top.  Begin with a right faceing corner at the foot of the buttress that immediately welcomes with untrustworthy flakes.  Someone's ceremonial shrine sat the base of the crack 4/02, the first crux is stepping over the candles and offerings...perhaps an offering to the rock quality gods?

The climbing gets interesting as you leave two beautiful parrallel hand cracks (the best section of the climb) and pass a bulge on the right at the top.  Here the rock gets a bit crumbly and disconcerting for the crux corner of the pitch, not that difficult, but questionable kitty litter always makes things more difficult for the mind...

You can set up a belay at some ledges at the top and scramble off the back of the formation, or better, hand traverse right out to the Unknown Face route and rap to the ground.

Pontiac climbs big moves to big holds on a small route. White this route is not very tall, it is still fun and climbs well. It is worth doing.

Jam and sidepull your way up two parallel cracks, protecting when possible with a set of cams from finger to fist-sized as you go. There is no particular crux, but there are lots of big moves. The pump clock could run out if you spend too much time thinking it over or placing gear.

Top out on a ledge,place some gear for an anchor or directional, then head down and left (on belay) to the anchors and rap as for

Green Slab

and

The Buick

.

To reach this climb, park at the Buick rocks/Hitler's sex life area.  Scramble east to the base of the southern Buick rock.  This route climbs the main crack system of the front of the rock.  To the left of a fairly blank face find a left facing corner.  Climb 20 feet to a ledge on some loose rock.  Once there squeeze up a right angling off width for 25 feet to a small sloping ledge.  Use a few face holds to get back into the now right facing corner.  Watch for loose rock here.  Climb directly toward the summit up the shallow crack or veer left for some harder to protect face climbing.  Avoid climbing directly to the summit, which consists of two large blocks leaning against each other.  Instead belay in the space underneath them.  To descend, scramble east up 4th class rocks and then south to a descent gully.  This route is not run out and has several good stances for rests, but be careful of a few spots of loose rock.

This is the first crack around the corner from the Green Slab. Although short, it is very steep and has some fun, sporty moves.

Jam and edge up the angling crack system until it is possible to traverse around to the anchors for Green Slab, or set up an anchor and escape to the right.

This is an enjoyable single pitch (80 - 100 feet) route that follows a line on the west side of the Entry Way Slabs formation immediately North of Buick Rocks.  From the Buick Rocks turn-out, scramble approximately 50 feet to the northeast until you reach the west side of the Entry Way Slabs formation.  The route begins approximately 10 feet to the right of the large boulder that lies next to the east side of the road.  Climb up this face and traverse to the base of the shallow dihedral.  Follow the dihedral to the base of the obvious steep dihedral split by a 6" - 8" crack (crux). Jam or layback for approximately 20 feet to the belay stance.

Descent is a walk-off down and to the east until you reach the first Buick Rocks formation and follow the obvious trail back to the turn-out.

This is the wide crack next to

Pooh Belly

(two left of the

Unknown Face

).

It offers steep jamming and good pro,with some loose feet up the second buttress. The Hubbel guide lists the climb at 5.8. I thought it was at least 5.9. Maybe I was wimpy that day, but it felt fairly tough compared to what I was expecting.

Walk off...

Description

Protection

Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life