A contender for the best technical winter mixed climb in the High Sierra. The "big brother" to the standard Winter Route next door. Much like that route, this one holds little visual appeal as a summer rock climb, but in winter when filled with frozen snowmelt from above it becomes a much more interesting and tantalizing endeavor. Depending on the source this route is listed as Grade III or IV. Expect a full day with the approach and long descent.

Some helpful resources:

Summer Rock Route Beta

First Winter Ascent Trip Report

Second Winter Ascent Trip Report

Aspect: south facing wall from 10,000-12,000'. It seems that the best conditions are found in the first week of March (maybe late February as well) on BIG snow years. A healthy winter snowpack on the summit plateau helps feed the ice that forms within the chimney system and is necessary to fill in the lower-elevation approach gullies. The first winter ascent occurred in a relative drought in 2007, and they found some ice and climbed half the route in rock shoes. The second winter ascent and our following one were done in 2017 (200+% of normal snowpack) and 2019 (~170%) in full ice and mixed conditions with almost no "pure" rock climbing. By mid-March the south facing wall is roasting in the sun. Some subsequent ascents in late March and early April 2019 reported finding little-to-no ice and wishing they had brought rock shoes instead. The topo posted here is representative of the route in good late winter form and should not be used in lieu of good judgement - make smart decisions. The route can be glassed from the trailhead.

The crux P5 roof (5.8 if dry and in rock shoes; M4/hard in crampons) was bypassed by earlier winter ascent parties who tunneled up deeper into the chimney and out a small birthing hole onto the belay ledge. This “thin man’s squeeze” was impassable for my larger frame. I could barely even push my helmet through the hole above me - as such I suspect the blocks in the chimney may have shifted here. Later parties also confirmed they did not fit through, so plan on getting rowdy pulling out over that wild roof with slotted picks and skidding frontpoints.

Winter Chimney

NE Ridge (full)

Michael Strassman Memorial Route

Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route

Bastille Buttress - Papillon

Winter Route

North Ridge

Direct South Face

This is one of the best moderate alpine mixed routes in the Sierra Nevada. Winter Route consists of two snow gullies connected by a rock pitch and capped with a rock headwall. In the summer these gullies are full of fragrant wildflowers. There is a mixed chimney pitch at the end of the second gully.

Approach:

Hike up the obvious trail at the end of the road, go right over the creek, and reach the Ashram/Stone House. From the Stone House identify the bottom of the first gully and the field of giant boulders. To get to the route diagonal directly towards the bottom of the gully, keeping to the left of the maze of giant boulders. If you go through the middle of the boulder field you will waste a lot of time fighting bushes.

Route Description:

After reaching the base of the first gully, go up it until the terrain steepens. Either traverse left on a ledge into large right-facing dihedral, which can be climbed in two pitches into the second gully - a rappel may be necessary depending on snow cover - or climb straight up through a short groove directly into the second gully. Sometimes an ice pitch that can be used instead of the groove will form to the right of the first gully; to get to it take a right-hand branch of the first gully from around its midpoint. I've never seen this fabled ice pitch in three trips up the Winter Route, though. I think I heard about it from Alois Smrz.

Proceed up the second gully until it narrows into a chimney. There may or may not be ice there depending on how lucky you are. Take this in one short pitch to the Winter Route Notch then rappel down the other side to a giant ledge. There's no rappel station -just sling a flake on the headwall side. One can bivy comfortably on the ledge.

There are four headwall pitches. There is supposedly a fourth class way up the far left side of the headwall if you're running short on time, but I haven't done it. The headwall finish goes straight up from the large tree then traverses about twenty feet right on a ledge to the base of a groove that diagonals to the right. Climb this for about ten feet then traverse left onto the face. As of winter 2011 there is a fixed knifeblade on this pitch. If it has snowed recently and this pitch can't be climbed in boots or rock shoes, it is delicate dry-tooling over thin gear (knifeblades and microcams). It is 5.7 in summer but the slabby nature of the pitch makes it challenging in crampons. Reach another large ledge, then either continue straight up over 5.5 terrain or go left past a large chockstone to giant ledge number two.

Identify a steep, narrow, loose-looking gully above. It is difficult to access directly; traditionally, a 5.7 pitch is taken on its left, a belay is set about a hundred feet up, then the leader either 5.9 slab climbs or tension traverses into the gully, which is 5.4. After the gully one pitch of 5.0 gains the sandy summit plateau.

Descent:

The descent is not trivial. When you reach the summit plateau - or after you summit - find the east ridge and follow it keeping it to your left until you reach a broad gully. Take it directly down towards Tuttle Creek. About 500 vertical feet before you reach the creek go up and left to a saddle in the left-hand ridge; it helps to identify this saddle from the dirt road on the approach. If you go straight down the gully and miss the saddle in the dark, you will enter the Mirkwood of the Sierra Nevada, complete with spiders and stinging nettle. Once through the saddle go down sand or snow to a dirt road on the north side of the creek. When you are across from your car just cross the creek.

The NE Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is middle of the 3 prominent ridges recognizable from the town of Lone Pine. The full ridge traverse is 3 miles long and rises 6900 feet. Many people spend multiple days on this route so be forewarned. There is no water once on the ridge, although there may be water on the descent depending on the time of year.

Secor bumped this up to 5.7 in newer editions of The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes and Trails. I did not encounter anything harder than 5.6 on the original route. The rock is frequently crumbly (unlike the N Ridge), but the difficult sections are short and route finding was not overly challenging. For me the crux was navigating and bushwhacking the E ledges descent for which only a vague description is available.

First winter ascent:

1994 Alois Smrz and Rich Henke

The Michael Strassman Memorial Route (MSMR) climbs the South Face of Lone Pine Peak following an impressive right leaning dike, dubbed the Super Dike. This prominent feature rips across the otherwise blank wall for nearly 500 feet, offering up some incredible climbing along the way. The first ascent was accomplished on September 30, 2008 by Scotty Nelson, Charles Ince and Nate Ricklin.

Get the topo

HERE

Additional information can be found here:

pullharder.org/2008/09/11/m…

Route dedication video:

youtube.com/watch?v=9tKCPz1…

Route Description

 P1 (5.7R): Climb the dike up the pedestal angling up and right toward a bush then follow the ramp up and left. At the top of the pedestal (sling horn for pro) traverse left into a left-facing corner that angles up and right. From here traverse right into a smaller ramp and head out across the face to a discontinuous dike that leads to a mantle then a roof and a belay. 50M.

 P2 (5.10a): Climb up and right passing 4 bolts then get into the right facing corner. Climb this until it ends and move up and left passing a bolt then angling right toward a prominent ledge. 40M.

 P3 (5.10c): Amazing climbing follows the Super Dike. 55M.

 P4 (5.10c): Follow the Super Dike past a bush while doing some killer climbing along the way. 50M.

 P5 (5.10c): Continue on the Super Dike past 4 bolts into the Sea of Knobs where the climbing becomes very easy. Look for the a 3 bolt anchor. This is where MSMR crosses Land of Little Rain (40M).

 P6 (5.4 X): AMAZING climbing (no protection) leads up and right through the Sea of Knobs to a prominent bush and a 2 bolt rap station (35M).

If you are going to the summit, follow the Summer Ridge up and left.

Alternatively, from the top of P5 follow Land of Little Rain by going straight up and slightly left to a broken roof where a large crack will take you almost to the Summer Ridge (60M).

Follow the ridge and jump on the Direct South Face Route (Beckey Route)

to go to the summit. Otherwise, 2 ropes (60M) allow you to rap the MSMR

from the bush back down to the notch.

An awesome adventure on a beautiful 2,000' granite buttress on the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak. A "sleeper" classic that was recently published in Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite Climbs book.

A good topo and approach information exists in the Bishop Area Rock Climbs guide by P. Croft. It has been awhile since I climbed it, so this is my best recollection of the route. Please add any comments or corrections.

P1) Just right of the toe of the buttress, simulclimb an obvious crack system that heads up and splits into two. We took the right crack, which proved to be a bit of a slimy, flaring squeeze. Belay at a large, boulder covered ledge at the base of a massive left-facing hollow arch. 5.7, 100m.

P2) Follow a LF corner and slab with sparse gear to a small stance at the base of a short steep section of face with a bolt. Gear belay, 5.8R, 55m.

P3) Up a short steep face past a bolt, then follow obvious weaknesses leftward to a semi-hanging belay from gear. 5.8+, 40m.

P4) A crack leads up to a long, unprotected foot-traverse right across a horizontal seam that wraps around the buttress. A slabby move or two directly up from the seam leads to a huge black knob and a bolted belay. 5.7R, 40m.

P5) Some mandatory 5.9 slab past two or three bolts leads to the steep A0 bolt ladder. Aid your way up to a bolted hanging belay. Aiders and jumars are not necessary here, get creative and use some shoulder slings. 5.9 A0, 35m. This vertical pane of glass is rumored to have been freed at 5.13!

P6) "The Ultimate Finger Crack." If this thing were on ground level it would have a waiting line year-round. A clean splitter that varies from tips to thin-hands with nary a foothold in sight. Small cams (up to .75 camalot) and nuts will fit just about anywhere on this one. Originally rated A1, but goes free at a reasonable 5.10c. Perfect. Gear belay at a stance atop a horizontal dike. 5.10c, 30m.

P7) Continue up the awesome crack (albeit at a lower angle) as it turns the corner and widens into a grain-silo squeeze chimney. Gear belay at a small stance at the base of a steep LF dihedral. 5.8, 50m.

P8) The Crux. A steep LF dihedral with a crack that varies from fingers to fists. Ideal belay is at a poor stance after turning a small roof towards the end of the steep section. If you're like me, you may only have one cam and a few nuts left after leading this beast and may have to belay wherever possible. 5.10d 40m.

P9) A grainy, possibly hollow LF flake in the corner leads up to a funky step across mantle move right on a ledge around the arete. An easy corner goes up to a nice gear/sling belay in a notch. 5.10a, 40m.

P10) Up an easy section of slab to a large triangular roof. Place a piece in the roof with a long sling, then step down a few feet until your hands can reach the lip on the left side. Crank over the lip and up towards a stance belay with small gear and a fixed pin or two (pins are gone, but there are good spots for some tiny gear). A short pitch, 5.6/7, 20?m.

P11&12) I linked these two (accidentally) with a 60m rope. A few thin moves off the belay leads to fun and juggy 5.6 face climbing left around the arete past a very old bolt which sticks out very far. Climb past a small ledge (possible belay) and choose between a short squeeze on the left or unprotected 5.5ish face just to the right. Gear belay from a comfy ledge. 5.8/9, 50+m.

P13) Up and left across a short slab past two bolts (1 hangerless) to a shallow groove that leads up and left to a large bush/tree, build a uncomfy belay here 55m, or continue to the base of the short chimney if you have a 70m rope.

P13B) Climb up a short wide chimney. Finish up the chimney to a bolted belay atop a big ledge. 5.7, 15m.  This could be combine with P13 with some simulclimbing with the leader in the chimney and the follower on the 5.9 slab by the hangerless bolt.

P14) An A0 move off the belay (or 5.11+) leads to a knobby 5.7 face with two bolts. Above this, easy terrain leads to the "Shark's Fin", a wildly exposed perched boulder on the narrow ridgeline. Climb up and over the fin to a massive ledge and belay from boulders.

P15) I was unsure where this final pitch went. Supposed to check in at 5.9. There is a steep block above the belay ledge, and the line may have gone somewhere near the right side of it, but there was a large snow bank blocking our way in April. I opted for a line on the left that was a bit runout, with my only pro being a slung horn about 30' up, well after the difficult sections were over. From there, easy blocky terrain led to the top.

Descent beta: The "standard" summertime descent heads up the ridge (climber's left) to a long scree-filled gully along the left side of the buttress. Alternatively, a long and convoluted descent down the north ridge is possible, eventually contouring back south into the main drainage towards the base.

Gear: Double rack from #0 TCU to #3 camalot, set of nuts. A #4 camalot was handy on the P8 crux. Many long slings. Nearly all of the protection bolts on this route have been replaced by the ASCA. The last two bolts on the A0 ladder (P5) are 1969 originals! One buttonhead with leeper hanger, and another 1/4" stud with homemade aluminum hanger and square nut!

AKA - Up Your Buttress. This original name was changed to "Papillon" for the Croft/Lewis Bishop Area Rock Climbs guidebook by one of the first ascentionists. A big outing - we all felt this route was a significant step up in difficulty and more time consuming than the Beckey route next door. Bring your best slab game and leave your fear of old 1/4" bolts at the door (they are actually quite solid). All of the bolted belay anchors are backed up with a newer 3/8" bolt. It would be easy to bail from top of P6. The crux P6 is a little funky - the FA party should have gone 10' right of where they did at the start. As is, you have to do a forced hard move to clip the second bolt, then reverse the hard move to follow the climbing line off right. The runout traverse on P7 is serious for both leader and follower. P9 has some physical & runout chimneying and the route joins Fred Beckey's line at the end of P10. 5 or so pitches up to 5.9 with an A0 move or 5.11+ boulder problem lead to the summit.

WARNING! This is a long high-alpine rock climb with a tricky descent and should not be underestimated. You need to be experienced in alpine route finding and very comfortable with exposure. THIS SHOULD NOT BE YOUR FIRST HIGH SIERRA ROCK CLIMB.

It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so hopefully others will add details...

Mostly 4th class climbing with a couple sections of up to 5.4. A fun, easy, and accessible peak for the aspiring alpinist.

Descend to the SW down loose talus.

Some people have had difficulty finding the correct descent gully - the GPS coordinates for the top of gully are:

36.555613˚ -118.234256˚

See also comments below.

From the ledge at the top of the gully, climb the right facing dihedral for 4 pitches.  This section takes you through several unpleasant squeeze chimneys with scarce protection.  Climb flakes and cracks on the right side of the main corner, and at the top of pitch 5, walk through the tunnel on the left side of the gully.  Once through this, continue climbing for one more pitch to the first bivy ledge.  Pitches 6-10 stay to the right of the prominent gully, moving over easy terrain and knobby climbing.  After pitch 10 you are forced left across the top of the gully.  Pitch 11 climbs a left facing corner to a bolt below the roofs.  You then traverse left into a large gully and scramble 500' up and left across third class terrain, up a narrow, loose gully and through the "eye".  At the second bivy ledges, move right about 200' and start just left of the wide chimney, climbing up and using boulders for a belay.  Continue climbing up and right until you are on the left edge of a gully.  Tension traverse or face climb (5.9) into the gully and belay at the arete on top.  A large chasm drops away on the other side.  Face climb up and right over easy ground to the top of the climb.  Descend the East Slabs back to the road (see below).

Helpful Topo:

summitpost.org/view_object.…

If you plan on climbing this in more than one day, you will need a backcountry permit for the Tuttle Creek Trailhead from the Forest Service.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lone Pine Peak