Pitch 1   Slippery When Wet climbs up smooth, waterslideish rock on the left side of the wall.  The first clip is 20' off the deck.  Continue up well spaced bolts (15' apart) on glacier polished rock to complete the first eighty foot pitch. 

  Pitch 2   After crossing a shelf with some alders you continue up a steeper ,second face of solid, smooth rock.  Climb on rounded holds and small ledges for some very enjoyable moves with a spectacular view.  Follow the bolts up this crux pitch to a two bolt anchor and do a double rap to get back to the ground.

Slippery When Wet

Amway

Stick Shift

Rage Against the Disease

Spotted Dick

Ho Hum

Potentially Dry

Rootbeer Float

Crisco Kid

Astroglide

Fragile Minds

Can't Steal What They Don't Own

Tom's Toothpaste

Black Cab Rarebit

The Wetter the Better

Marksalot

Waterslide

Black Pudding

Slip and Slide

Slurm

Just One More

Indian Crack

Icky Thump

Hungry Time

Dynamo Hum

Virgin Mary, Not

Crossover

Waterside is located on an arete 40' right of the waterfall.  Climb up a ramp to the first bolt then traverse left steeping over a grassy gully section.  Using an extendable on the first clip will cut down on rope drag.  Follow the smooth arete up and left to the anchor 85' up the wall.

Amway is a TR only and is reached by climbing Hungry Time on right to a shared anchor.  Start climbing the ramp to the left of Hungry Time before starting up a steep rock face with smooth holds.  Pass a bulge on the face before reaching the anchor.

Stick Shift is a top rope route that shares an anchor with Slippery When Wet.  Climb a steep section of smooth, blocky rock 20' right of the left sport climb.  After the steep staircase continue up slick face moves to the anchor.

Follow 11 bolts up and right.  Start in a seam that traverses up and right on jugs. Pull a moderately hard move into a pod with a nice little plant.  Then head straight up through the crux and progressively easier terrain to the top.  

Spotted Dick starts on a very smooth face with some tiny crimps of quartzite. Climb past white lines and three bolts to a blank, sloping face. Then figure out how to get through the next 5 bolts of insanely hard climbing. This route is well protected with clean falls. This route can remain wet during the spring melting season or long after a heavy rain. 

Ho Hum is the right most climb at the crag.  It starts on a face just right of the arete with the first bolt being 12 off the ground.  This climb angles up and right on good, round, polished holds and ledges.  Clip 4 bolts before mounting the arete and running things out to the anchor.

This route climbs the extremely obvious bolt line to the right of and arete. The first hanger is located 12' height. Follow the right trending ledge system to a 2 bolt rap anchor 70' high.

Rootbeer Float starts six feet right of the drainage on a smooth face.  The first bolt is eight feet up the slab and has been crushed from the spring avalanche cycle yet a small bier may still fit.  The third bolt (was missing a hanger) is just under a ramp.  Follow well spaced hangers up more smooth slab climbing on to an anchor located 95 feet high.

Crisco Kid climbs the left arete on the main wall.  Smear up supper smooth rock up a well spaced bolt line.  There is some blue bail tat at the second clip.  From here trust your rubber on the polished face climbing that brings you to the anchor.  Some small stopers after the second bolt can be used to make this route a less scarry sport adventure.

Astroglide starts left of the arete on a mossy section of rock.  The first rusty bolt is located 8' off the deck.  Pull past a small roof and on rounded arete that reminded me of a whales back.  Smear you way up the the anchor.

This route is furthest left on the main wall, around the corner from crisco kid. Poorly cleaned and very wet. Bolts and anchor are in a weird location. May be easier if it's dry. 

Nice route that has some good movement in a few places and distinct cruxes but mostly pretty easy. 

A fun introduction to Byron Glacier friction climbing. Starts with strange high stepping on smooth stone. About half way up the route steepens and the holds become more positive. Heady bolting to help keep your teeth clean.

Once locating the first bolt, climb up a slab to a good perch on a ledge. From here punch it through some krungus sequences on small feet and handholds. From the rest ⅔ of the way up, meander back and forth across the wall until you either commit to a big reach or dyno(?!). The difficulty eases off climbing to the chains. The bolts were replaced courtesy of Todd. 

The Wetter The Better is a route located on the second tear of this rock formation.  Start form the anchor of Slippery When Wet and head right.  Climb a smooth face of rock to gain a sloping, left trending ledge.  Follow this up the dihedral to a sheared anchor with the route on left. Descend with two rappels.

Marksalot starts 20' left of a slab face.  Climb a thin crack with good hand holds to a ledge twelve feet height.  Then smear up a short slab past a alder ledge and on to the upper face.  Follow three bolts on the smooth face with long moves. Clip the anchor and smile because you got to trad climb on the road system.

Black Pudding climbs a smooth in-cut fetcher left of the bolt line.  The first clip is located eight feet off the deck.  Pull very smooth and sloping holds straight up to the anchor sheared with Icky Thump.

This route starts 20' right of a small waterfall.  Climb past three bolts on a very smooth slab to gain a small ledge and rest.  Keep following more hardware up rolling sections and faces of polished rock to an anchor located 75 feet high.  The bottom of the route could use a wire brush to clean up some moss but this still remains a fun. 

  Location   After crossing the avalanche hike up and right to a waterfall a few hundred yards left of the main crag. Waterside is the second route you will encounter. Is climbs the arete and shares an anchor with Waterslide.

Slurm starts on the lowest bolt on the cliff and climbs the slab past three hangers to a small ledge.  Trend up and right along a smooth, sloping ramp up to the top of the rock for a one bolt anchor or build and anchor on alders.  You can also use the top section and anchor of Dynamo Hum as an alternate finish because the two routes cross each other.

 Edit from the Admin "The climbing on this route is enjoyable however some of the following things. Every single bolt except the last one has been compromised. THERE IS NO ANCHOR. You can use the anchor on the 5.11 however it was damaged in rock fall and it consists of a single chain on a bent bolt, the other bolt is sheared off. You can take it too the top and belay from alders and a sitting stance." 

  Keep an eye on comments to see what current route conditions look like due to the nature of this route and area.

Just One More starts on mossy foot holds to make the first clip on top of a bulge 10' up.  Then climb stright up smooth slip and slide type fetcher to a vegitated ledge.  From here go right over two more bulges and on to the anchor at the top of the rock formation.

Indian Crack starts climbing over a bulge to get into a large open book.  Follow the dihedral of great rock that looks mean past a few small roofs.  Good steaming, Jams and Lay-back are available on this route.  Be careful not to let the rope push you gear to far back into the crack.  After leaving the gigantic flakes cut left to the anchor.

Icky Thump has a a belay bolt three feet off the ground.  Start on smooth fetchers trending up and right.  This route has hangers spaced very close together.  Follow the hangers to a two bolt with old tat anchor.

The first bolt of Hungry Time is located 18' off the deck. Pull on good hold to reach the first clip.  More good holds bring you past a bulge to a ledge and up a ledge.  Finish on slaby climbing to the anchor up about 95'.  Be aware that this climb is dangerous at some sections. For the first 40ft or so, you are playing with ground fall potential.

Dynamo Hum starts to the right of the slab.  Climb onto a bulge and clip the first bolt located 25' up the wall.  Then climb straight up the face on smooth technical slab moves.  Finnish by smearing up and right on a waterside like rock after a ledge, that will bring you to the anchor.

Virgin Mary Not starts on a smooth section of wall with the first bolt being 12 feet high. Climb out left around a steep fetcher and past a bulge to gain a ledge with some small alders.  From here pull a steep section  before the wall mellows out be before the anchor.  Finish at the top of the cliff.

Cross over starts on medium sized crimbs to the first bolt located 10' up the wall.  Then climb over cool quartzite stripes to a side pull and bolt number two.  Pull over a bulge and continue up smooth face moves right of running water in the wet season (year round at Byron).

The Byron Glacier Wall is (as of 2014) tucked under Byron Glacier and the surrounding mountains.  The rock here is much more solid and polished than the climbs on the Seward Highway.  The rock seams polished and compressed to into a quality that is worth climbing.  Enjoy climbing this single pitch gray cliffs that pokes out of a green alder covered slope in this beautiful valley.   P.S. watch out for Avalanches in this area well into spring and summer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Byron Glacier Wall