This is a good moderate route at the Shallow End.  It has a slabby section between the 3rd and 4th bolt which is the crux.  You will pass a good layback and go up the roof.  The anchors are at a good ledge. Happy Birthday Evangeline!

Grumpy Cat's Revenge

FriendShit with Benefits

Paranoid Android

Johnny on the Spot

Hesitation Blues

Bumblebee Party

Circus Freak

Helium on The Hips

Robby the Robot

Most Painfull Elimination

Splitting Bamboo

Morbius

Tequila Sunrise

Louder Than Words

Sun Salute

Forbidden Planet

Downward Dog

Procrastination Proclamation

Pss Pss

Turtle Head

MoonLight Pokey

Toilet to Tango

Shit'n Cactus

"I am the Eggplant"

Pokey is Grumpy's brother, but it was created under the moonlight. This is a short easy route with a face climb crux at the top.

This is a good short route.  The crux starts after the third bolt.  You will need to find the good rest or you will make this route harder that what it is :-).  There is another crux after the 4th bolt that is very techy.The ending is pretty mellow but not a gimme.

 

Trends right to join Procrastination Proclamation Anchors

Every crag needs a hesitation blues. 

  A couple long moves and just enough pump factor to make it 12-.

I wish it just kept going but it is the Shallow End. The crux is between the 4th and the 5th bolt.  Pretty cool moves going through the roof.

This route gradually gets harder.  After the last roof, it gets thin (the crux) going to the anchors. This route has a super fun roof with hidden holds.  It is a must do in the area. 

A stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.  This route has some good sequences in the middle.  The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt.  On the 5 bolt, milk the rest because the ending is not a gimme.  This is a very good route!   

Full-value route. Not too pumpy, fun moves all the way to the chains. Although probably not the best warm-up.

Fun route with crux at the buldge and jugs to the top

Fun, hard moves (i.e. the crux) get you to a no-hands rest.  Make sure you recover, because there's a redpoint crux waiting for you just before the anchor...

It follows some ledges and low angle climb. It is the only moderate route below 5.9  worth getting on in this area. If you are with kids they seem to enjoy it a lot.

2 cruxes: one early on, one to steal your redpoint near the end. Great movement, very fun route.  No super-long moves.

I do not know if this route has seen a first ascent but we named it Tequila Sunrise.  It has a lot of under cling and cool moves.  The crux will be before the end.   

  Where the under cling are located, the rock looks like a bunch of sea shells glued together.

This one is an under appreciated and often overlooked climb that is well worth more traffic.   

     Begin with a novel heel hook and rock over move before you leisurely navigate juggy ledges below the large tufas and vertical face.  Once past the tufas and onto the face you must decipher the ever more cryptic and sapping moves on your way to the heartbreaker crux that guards the chains.  

     Hopefully this line will see more traffic.  It is well worth tying in for.

Fun climb & a good warm-up, but very bad bolting.  After the first 2 bolts you'll follow the holds, which stray about 2-3 meters left of the bolt line (i.e. pendulum fall), coming back just to clip the next 2 bolts, which are off-route. There's evidence of the bolt line being moved left (empty 3/8" hole), but certainly not enough. It isn't a big deal if this climb is within your ability, but do bear this in mind if 10+/11- is at your limit.

Similar feel to Splitting Bamboo.  Bouldery crux down low, good rest, redpoint crux up high.

Great route! The first crux is at the beginning with a redpoint crux at the middle of the route.  It gradually get easier up to the anchors.

Recently reclaimed (winter 2020) from the original bad bolting, this climb is now more worth tying in for.If you can manage the steep start and low crux the climbing does ease as one climbs higher, but there are still some tricky moves that can steal your send.There are an abundance of cool grips on this climb with some of the better tufas at the Shallow End to be fondled on your way to the chains.

Some long, powerful moves on mostly good holds on nice stone.

It was fun figuring out this route.   You will need to be ready to use your undercling technique on this.  The crux is from the second to the third bolt.  From here there are couple of moves to the roof towards the Turtle Head.

It starts with some face climbing that gets you to some great layback moves.  The crux is getting out of the layback into the face.  It will end after a roof with some cool moves.   

  This route routes has some face, layback and roof climbing. Great Route!

This climb carries a ton of climbing in a short span.  It starts beneath a black water streak and veers left after the forth bolt.  It continues climbers right off the roof to the anchors.   

  The first crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt while coming out of the hole toward a ledge.  At this ledge try to get it back because the red point crux starts here until clipping the eight bolt over the roof.  The sixth bolt before the roof is a working bolt.  During the red-point attempt,  it is good just to skip it and save your energy (it makes for a fun and long whipper).  We extended the bolt on the lip of the roof and it was very useful.   

  Both cruxes and the movement through the roof makes this route a must do in the area.   It will take a lot of body tension and foot work.

This route looks more intimidating than what it is.  Once you start climbing it, you will find all the hidden holds and moves.  The crux is between the second and third draw.   This is a very good route and warm up for this section.

The Shallow End is comprised of many worthwhile routes varying in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c. Notably, the left end is the only place at The Dry where climbers will find a concentration of sub 5.10 climbing. The remainder of the routes are on stellar rock with many bouldery sequences. Most are well worth climbing despite their comparatively short length of 50-55 feet.

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Routes in 2 - Shallow End