This route ascends a short north-facing wall. Ascend a vertical face crux with thin holds to reach a diagonal rail system. 5.10d is the original rating. According to Jason Haas in 2019, this route is now 5.11d. I have not returned to the route to see what has changed. I can find no record that I repeated the climb since 2003. Don't be surprised if it's harder than expected.

The Appetizer

Fire And Rain

Wind Song

One Way Ticket Into Exile

Room With A View

Bar Room Ranger Fight

Illegal Smile

Right-facing Dihedral

Dwarf's Dilemma

Ride the Wind

Rain Dance

This route ascends a smooth looking face between two aretes. Begin from a ledge, and pull over a small bulge using a thin, discontinuous, vertical seam followed by grabbing the right arete. This is the crux (.12b). Stickclipping the 2nd bolt is recommended. Continue by liebacking up the sharp arete (.12a/b) past the 3rd bolt to foothold stance and the 4th bolt. Here, the arete rounds out, and the vertical face becomes a slab. Move left, and ascend the slab (.12a). The difficulty eases above the 5th bolt to .10d. Just above here, it is possible to clip the 4th bolt on "

Rain Dance

" to the left if you feel insecure. Delicate moves lead over a small roof. Continue up the face to a good ledge and the anchor.

Climb the left-facing dihedral to its end.

Rain Dance

goes right here. Reach the 4th bolt up and left above a tiny roof or bulge. Move onto the left side of the blunt arete, and ascend the face finishing on the arete. The dirty corner to the left is off route. It is also possible to stay on the arete from the 4th bolt to the finish ledge.

This was the third route that I established at the crag and the line that most caught my eye. There a four hard sections. Begin by climbing up the right side of a narrow, overhanging prow. The first crux, past the 2nd bolt, moves up the prow left of a roof, using an undercling hold & shallow groove to reach a horizontal break. The second crux wrestles with a lieback up a shallow, right-leaning wide crack past the 3rd & 4th bolts. Gain a rest on the right side of the prow (arete). The third hard section, uses the arete and then moves left onto the face. The final redpoint crux ascends a vertical face with small holds to a jug on the ledge, just above the anchor.

Lieback and stem up a right-facing dihedral with a thin crack. Follow a thin crack corner to the base of a chimney. Clip the 6th bolt, and move right onto the face  Ascend the vertical face to the top.

Climb in a small, acute dihedral and into some flakes. A 4 inch crack guards the chains.

Climb through a couple of hanging dihedrals with bolts to your right. A few jugs allow you to join

Bar Room Ranger Fight's

finish.

Climb the right-facing dihedral just left of Room with a View. The crux was climbing through the bush near the bottom.  For our warm-up, I led Mike Endicott up this in March 2012.

This short climb can be climbed either of two ways: the direct line is .12c, and the indirect line is .12a. While the guidebook "

Boulder Canyon

" by Jason Haas and Chris Weidner lists the easier line and its grade, I felt this way was a cop out, thus avoiding a challenging piece of climbing. Each way starts by ascending a thin crack up and right to a painful fingerlock. Move left onto the arete using tiny crimpers. Reach a good hold on the left side of the arete, and finish up the left side. My star rating also applies to the direct line.  There are 10 to 12 moves total.

This is a sport route with optional gear placements.

Eds. The original submission included a description allegedly taken directly from Mark Rolofson's Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II guidebook without permission. Hence, it was deleted

.

Per

Mark Rolofson

: "Ride The Wind" ascends a slab on the rightmost side of the crag. The hardest moves are the start, ascending a short steep face to gain the slab. Climb up and left to a small roof, and clip the 4th bolt above it. Balance up left to a foothold on the right side of an arete. Climb back right above the roof on a tricky slab. Continue up moderate climbing with a 5.9 finish past the last bolt.

Rain Dance is a worthy pitch at The Sky Cafe. Layback & jam the dihedral to its end. Consistent climbing takes you out right, on to a slab, over a small overlap, into a scoop (pretty cool finger pods here), and up to the anchor.

Per

Mark Rolofson

: this climb is a link-up that starts on "

Wind Song

" and finishes on "

Fire and Rain

".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sky Cafe