Thin lay backing with small gear into a much less strenuous right trending undercling and flake. Very obvious from the base. According to older guides gear was difficult to place on lead. Needs a new anchor which I will try to add soon.

Pencil Thin Mustache

Beat Box

Another Man's Car

Golden Road

Wildest Dreams

Legends Ride Free

Heaven's Gate

Jungle Fun

The Crimson Eye

The Back Road

Confused for Daze

Psilocybe Cyanescens

Tempituous

Dana's Arch

The Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route

Finger locks widens to fists/laybacks and stemming.

The crux is right off the deck and consists of a couple painful locks with an insecure right foot. Gear is small but it’s over quickly. (You could stem from a tree if your into that.) A top rope preview is recommended for anyone pushing grades.

This is easily top roped from chains and sits directly down hill from Jungle Fun.

With the possible exception of "The back road", this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall.

P1: ~5.8+. Start with a rightward traverse to a flake and then jam a hand-fist crack to a large ledge with a big fir tree.

(A more challenging first pitch is "The death of Abraham Lincoln by mounties" (5.11c), which goes up the steep face and corner just right of the regular first pitch. )

P2: ~5.9. Start up a pair of thin face cracks, but soon traverse left into the long corner system. The crux is either the thin crack or the traverse into the corner. This pitch is about 150 feet and ends at a bolted belay.

P3 (original): ~5.7. A much shorter pitch that goes up past a bolt to the top of the wall. Some root-grabbing at the end.

P3-P4 (much better variation finish): 5.9. Traverse out right on the exposed ramp about 30' (takes gear). Belay at the bolted anchor. Then do a fantastic, steep 5.9 arete, protected by bolts. Ends at a large platform-overlook spot with a bolted anchor.

For the descent, the easiest is to rap the route. If you do the better variation finish, you can walk over to the other anchor to rap.

The majority of the climbing on this route is 5.10 and climbs unique features for Index.  The crux finish is wildly steep and exposed - fun!

Pitch 1:  Climb the first pitch of Jungle Fun/Tempituous to the belay.  Much better climbing than appears from the ground.  5.10 - bolts.

Pitch 2:  Follow the bolted flake as for the start of pitch 2 of Tempituous.  After the second bolt, trend left and follow flakes and a featured face to a belay stance.  By using slings, this pitch can be linked with P1 for a monster 180 ft pitch (20 draws). 5.10 - bolts and 1 medium nut between the second and third bolt.

Pitch 3:  The final pitch climbs through two fun 5.10+ bulges/roofs to a tenuous traverse left.  A two bolt boulder problem through the main roof with 250ft at your back guards the chains.  This pitch is still a little scruffy, but the climbing is good.  5.11+/12- bolts and a blue and yellow tcu protects the moves to the first bolt.

Descend by lowering from the top pitch to the top of P2.  Two raps from the top of P2 get you to the ground (100ft and 70ft).  Rap anchors have been installed in the plumb line under pitch two.   Take care with a 60M rope.

P1: (5.11-?) The obvious overhanging offwidth left of Lamplighter. The crux comes at a wide slot towards the top. A rarity for Index. Finish on the anchors on the hanging slab above.

P2: (5.11c) The bolted corner above (not the corner to the left). Starts on flakes up and slightly right and ends at the original bolted anchor for P2 Lamplighter. If you approach from Lamplighter P1 anchors you only need quickdraws, otherwise a few medium pieces protect the relatively easy start.

A modern classic! This is an amazing climb, with good variety and beautiful stone. All pitches are just under 30m and can be quickly rapped with a 60m rope.

P1: Boulder past two bolts, then walk right on the ledge to an arete. Cruxy moves bring one up, into the crack, and to the belay just up and left of a sloping ledge stance. (Note, this pitch may work better broken into two pitches, with a ledge fall possible if done in one pitch). This pitch is now 5.10 and takes no gear.

P2: Delicate and sequency climbing leads up past a flake, and rightward through an intricate sequence of moves back onto the arete. 5.11

P3:Up the arete on impossibly good holds, with a short crux near the end of the pitch. 5.10+

P4: Stem or smear your way up to the base of the roof, and reach high for holds to get you through. Continue up to the belay. 5.11-

P5: Up a cruxy layback sequence on sharp rock, then past the big roof on big holds. Tenuous climbing above the roof keeps you on your toes until the chains. 5.11+

P1 (5.10): Start as for Golden Road or climb the flake more easily from the left. 6 or so bolts lead up a face to the right of Golden Road to a left facing corner (9+). Stem and jam the corner past thin gear (10+) at the top to a belay anchor on a ledge on the right.

P2 (5.11): A flake goes up left to a fin/shallow corner. Use some small cams and nuts between bolts 1 and 2. After about 4-5 more bolts, the fin ends and you face a thin seam/face-climbing crux. A few more face moves (protected by medium-sized gear) lead to a 5.10 mantel and comfy belay ledge.

P3 (5.12a or A1): Two bolts protect the beginning of a right-leaning, thin fingers/fingertip crack. Tiny cams (0,00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.

If aiding it's probably easy to just French-free the crux.

P4 (5.10): Two bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. The pitch is nearly 35 m, so if you want to lower off the chains or rap, make sure you have a 70-m rope (or a second rope).

A short face traverse and 4th-class climbing leads up to the top of the wall where you can quickly get to the trail.

This route is basically a 3 pitch extension to the first pitch of Lamplighter.

P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement.  After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts.  Don't belay at the first anchor you see!  Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor.  I thought this was the best pitch on the route.

P2(5.11a).  Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.

P3(5.10+).  More edging past many bolts.

P4(5.11a).  Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge.  The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.

A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels

P1 (10c): Tricky face climbing on not-so-good holds heads up to a ledge. The crux comes (for me at least) when you reach some very small crimps around the halfway point.

P2 (11c): Head up and slightly right from the belay on black rock. Expect difficult friction and edging. Alternatively take the left line of bolts (hollow flake) and climb Beat Box or Tempituous.

If just doing Jungle Fun, it's best to combine P1 and P2 for full value. P1 can also be linked with P1 of Tempituous without much rope drag or P1 of Beat Box with some long slings. Bring plenty of draws.

P1 - 5.10c Climb Lamplighter to the first pitch anchors of Heavens Gate.

P2 - 5.11- Break left into a corner with blue lichen. Juggy climbing leads to a boulder problem before the anchors.

P3 - 5.10 Climb straight above the belay following sustained side pull and crimps. Easier gear climbing leads to the belay.

P4 - 5.11- A long pitch of flawless face climbing.

The Back Road has been dirty and obscure for 20 years or more. It appears to start as an obvious wide crack or chimney that seeps. This short section is followed by a s ledge traverses left, then back right, leading into cracks and the base of an overhang. The overhang us tackled through a right facing corner.  Climbing the over hang leaves one with a moderate mossy gully to the top.

A long time locals favorite mushroom now has a UTW line dedicated to its magic! While the mushroom is potent the climb is fortunately mostly moderate. The crux is short and quality! Just another wonderful UTW line with good and safe protection.

P1- Most bang for buck climbs Another mans car to the Brett and Scott Memorial anchor .11-. Another option is to climb Lamplighter .10  to the same anchor at base of BNS "Frog Corner". One can link p1 and p2 easily from Another Mans car p1. You can also link p1 of Lamplighter to p2 with good rope work and extension of draws.( .11- or .10)

P2- If you stopped at the BNS anchor this pitch will be short. Step slightly down from the anchor and undercling traverse hard left on a flake under BNS "Frog Corner" you will pass a bolt with couple face moves. once on the arete climb straight up till at the height of the anchor and step left to anchor. .9

P3- Crux pitch. Undercling out left on featured stone and make a move to a horizontal dike. Pull a quintessential Index move and continue straight up to ledge ( BNS p2 anchor is on this ledge but on right) from ledge traverse hard left on slopers and crimps to the anchor out on the face ( dont go to BNS anchor) .11-

P4- A fine mostly bolted pitch. Continue straight up on good face holds to a large flake where you can place a #3 or #4 camalot (optional #5) pass many bolts and a finger or two size cam to a large ledge (Sabbath Ledge) .10

P5- Jugs and rails lead to the sky. .9

P6- A fine hand crack goes up to a face move or two to more splitter cracks to the top of the wall. .9

The last two pitches make for a fine alternative to the last two pitches of BNS route. Its also best to link the last two pitches. The anchor atop p5 is mostly in place for Rappel. The rap route goes straight down to the anchor at base of p3. From there continue rappelling straight down to an anchor on a steep wall. The rappel route is plum line down the wall and does not go near p1 and p2.

Enjoy!

A three pitch sport climb left of Dana's Arch.

Pitch 1:  5.10 face and slab climbing.

Pitch 2:  Climb the middle option of three routes leaving the belay following a bolted flake.  follow the flake to a tough mantle leaving a corner.  Airy face climbing leads to a tricky face move skirting a roof into the upper corner.  Belay at a nice ledge.  5.11b

Pitch 3:  An index classic.  Out of this world knobs through very steep terrain highlight the last pitch.  It's not over until the very end with a pumpy finish at the chains. 5.12a

Beat Box 5.11+/5.12-

P1: Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder (.12a/b).

The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:

P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.

P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.

P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.

An excellent route that follows the obvious splitter corner above lamplighter to the top of the wall. Although this may be one of the easiest full length upper wall routes, this climb requires heavy use of small, but never dangerous gear through sustained airy climbing. Not to be missed!

P1 - 5.10c Climb Lamplighter to the top of the chimney. Traverse left and follow up the slab to the anchor.

P2 - 5.9 The Frog Corner: Steep juggy crack climbing on perfect gear makes for one of the best 5.9 pitches at Index. From here, your gear need only fit typical hand-sized and smaller cracks. So leave all gear from #3 and up at the top anchor.

P3 - 5.10 Pull a steep roof past a few bolts. Fun steep climbing on small gear follows. Finish the pitch on a leftward seam and follow up to the chains.

P4 - 5.10- Climb straight up above the belay placing small cams. Clip a bolt and follow crimps up and right until reaching twin cracks. Traverse left at the bolt and continue up steep terrain to the anchor. Leave all gear at the top anchor.

P5 - 5.10- Clip all bolts up fun crimpy climbing to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dana's Arch Area