Steep mixed climb with exposed finish. Aesthetically pleasing when viewed from across the lake. Start up crack right next to tall spruce. Pull on positive crimps through the bolt protected tan face. Place gear in horizontal and pull into juggy trough on the right edge of enormous roof. Gear in trough is funky and flared, but the terrain eases off, so it shouldn't be a problem.

High Resolution

Under Exposure

Unknown Pinnacle Route 1

Over Exposure

Just Get in the Swing

Cowboy Jazz

Unknown Pinnacle Route 2

Just Another Pretty Face

Modeling in the Nude

Conn Route

Pratt's Crack

Aggressive Tendoncies

Three Strikes Your Out

Begin directly across the gully from four little fishies- Uphill and around the corner from over exposure. First bolt is up and right a ways.

This is one of at least two routes on the small pinnacle just across the chasm from Over Exposure. Both pinnacle routes start on the west end (nearest Four Little Fishies) at a short, easy, right-facing corner.Climb up the short corner to a stance. Clip a bolt then make an awkward move left onto the face that is directly across from the first bolt on Over Exposure. Climb up past two more bolts to an anchor on top of the small pinnacle.

Over Exposure climbs to a subpeak of Photographer's on its southwest side.  From the parking area, walk around the base of Photographer's Peak to the gully that separates it from Aquarium Rock.  Over Exposure starts where a detached rock is a few feet from the main rock.   

  Stem up the first part between the main rock and the smaller rock behind it.  Then face climb through 4? bolts to the top.  Trend to the right near the end of the pitch.  Fixed anchors and a one-rope rappel are available.

Mixed line on NW corner. Overall well protected with only a couple of gear placements. First bolt is easy to spot and leads into a couple flakes. Tricky but safe crux. Run it out on easy terrain after last bolt. BHCC replaced all hardware 7-20-15.

Typical fun Needles climbing with what seems to be a new direct finish. My 1980 guide says to go right at the 3rd of 3 bolts. My handwritten note from 1993 says go right at the 4th of 4 bolts. On this ascent in 2007 I tried going right via a hard move around a blunt arete, but it was pretty scary over there. I reversed the moves and climbed directly over the bulge at what seems to be a new 5th bolt. That was about the same difficulty as moving right but far less spicy.

This short route climbs the west face of the small pinnacle directly in front of Over Exposure. This and the other pinnacle route both start at a short, right-facing corner on the west (Aquarium Rock) end of the pinnacle.Climb up the short corner to its top. Step right (red Camalot in crack) then up to a bolt. Make difficult moves up to and past a second bolt to the top of the pillar.

Climb the face of a rib between two waterchutes.  The first bolt is a ways up, and it is even farther to the 2nd bolt.  Pass two more bolts, a piton, and then another bolt.  Shares chain anchors with Cowboy Jazz , or take some gear and top out.

The crux of this route is climbing past the first three bolts. The rest of the route is a cruise except for the last couple of moves. The route trends up and to the right above a large roof, across a water groove then onto a nubbly arete. 

  It took four outings to finish the drilling on this route. John Page (aka: The Local Expert in the Verm's Rock & Ice article about the Thimble) kept stealing my bail biners by scrambling to the summit and rapping down the old eye bolt rap route. I hid and waited for him the third day. Despite John's "Modeling in the Nude" (literally being caught red handed with his pants down) possessing my most recent bail biner as he rappeled to the ground, John denied stealing any of my bail biners. The moral of this story... don't drink yourself into the wet brain syndrome so you may remember the present (or get caught "Modeling in the Nude").

Begin uphill a few feet from Over Exposure in a chimney.P1: Climb the chimney between Side Issue and Over Exposure. Turn left after the chimney and scramble up the gully. Pull the small overhang that is created by a choke stone. Their is a web anchor currently on top of this boulder. Once on top go around the corner to find the beautiful and long obvious head wall. Looks short but is actually quite a long low angle pitch with many different holds to choose from. Check for feet as their are plenty of great feet the whole way up. P2: Began up the face on 5.3 moves to the top. There are two horizontal cracks if you wish to protect this, one about half way up and the second close to the top. This pitch is often referred to as the Sea of Jugs.Descent: One 70m rope

P1: Climb the chimney up to an obvious ledge to a set a trad belay.  

  P2: There are a Few different variations for this pitch. Traversing left and finishing on the Sea of Jugs works well. Or a 5.9 variation--start up the P1 chimney and move right into a crack system following it to the top.

Pitch 1) Ten bolts lead to a two bolt belay on a ledge. A tricam or 3/4 TCU and small brass nuts might be helpful between bolts 9 and 10. 

  Pitch 2) Climb face above belay to a bolt, move right to large hold and seams where brassies might be helpful even though I didn't use any. 

  Higher up wired nuts can be used in a horizontal. One more bolts protects easier moves to the top. Small brass and regular wired nuts as well as a .5 tricam or equivalent cam and many quickdraws are the gear you need.

First Top Roped by Kevin Bein. Nice hand/finger crack with good finger locks as well. The begining is alittle chossy watch what you grab. Bouldery movement on the first crux which is getting established into the crack. Nice Deep Finger pockets footing gets a little tricky. If this were a little cleaner it would be a great climb. The condition of this route is kind of dirty,clean enough to climb!

This is the largest rock in the Photographer's Peak area.  Many good routes are available.  Most climbs on this are bolted, although some gear routes can be found.  At least 15 routes climb Photographer's Peak.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Photographer's Peak