Start just left of Pussytoes and climb a technical boulder problem for the first 3 bolts. Continue on small pockets and crimps to a spock-pocket at the last bolt. Climb left over the final bulge to the anchor of Galactic Emperor.

Perfect stone and amazing movement all the way to the top.

Doomsday

Tutu Man

Galactic Emperor

Who the F@&% is Jedediah?

Buck-n-Spin

Zen Garden

Sky Pilot

Phillip McCrevice

Pussytoes

Continue past the chain on sky pilot 3 more bolts. With a committing upper crux past sky pilots chain using tiny crimps and mini monos then jump for a jug witch leads to 11 climbing to the chain. The logical extension, if you do sky pilot, you MUST do this!!!!

Tutu Man in a technical stemming line on great stone!  Walk on by if you want to just pull down.  The extension involves more 5.10 moves to the second anchor.

Climb the technical orange slab on good stone left of TuTu Man. Traverse right at the top to join the first anchor on TuTu Man.

A mega thin boulder problem on a variety of edges guards the route's first jug at the 3rd bolt. From here, work your way through a couple bolts of nice 5.11 terrain before the angle lowers off and you're treated (or bothered) with 50 more feet of sub 5.10.

A cool little boulder of a route- a nice big brother rig to Rosy Pussytoes. Burl! Would be at least 3 stars if not for the long, easy and dirty finish.

Named after my long awaited and much enjoyed first experience riding a mechanical bull in the streets of Tensleep on July 4th, 2012.

A bit of a vision quest route.  A hard, crimpy 3 bolt boulder problem leads to about 5 more bolts of tough 5.11+ tech climbing in great, although a bit sharp, rock.  This is followed by a good stretch of easy dihedral climbing then capped with a few bolts of tough to read 5.11 pockets to the chains.  Not a classic, but I thought it deserves more traffic.

This is a brilliant climb. Incredible, streaked stone, difficult and enjoyable movement, plus it's 100% natural. The crux lies right off the ground- undercling to mono and snatch a crimp, then a moderate rest is followed by a full on rose move to two finger pocket, unwind.. awesome. Continue without rest into pumpy 13- climbing to the chains.

Tough crack climbing followed by hard face. Old school .11d in the guide but as hard or harder than any of the Shinto routes.

Hard moves to the second bolt gradually ease to a rest at the end of the crack. Continue up past a crux bulge then continued difficult and thoughtful climbing to the anchors.

Awesome line!  Step up and and fire the crux bouldery start.  Involves precision and control through the first three clips.  Beta intensive.  Shake on the jugs and cruise to the chains.

This line used to be shorter with an extension called Rosy Pussytoes that climbed four more bolts up the beautiful pockety headwall to the top of the steep part of the cliff.  Most people, unable to do this cryptic sequence of pockets, opted to use the crack to the right which is more like 5.10 not 5.13.  The bolts were moved over right to accommodate the 'new' finish and 'Rosy' was dropped from the name.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sector D'or et Bleu