This is a set of twin cracks at the east end of the north side of the Perpetual Motion Clump.  They are best approached by walking east from Star Wars Rock.  The left crack is 5.8, the right crack is 5.10, and if you use them both, it is probably 5.9.

Lean Two

Perpetual Motion

Hoser

Gross Chimney

Knack

Knick

Cyclotron

I Eat Cannibals

Right Archimedes Crack

Soapy Tit Wank

Rain Dance

Left Archimedes Crack

Unknown Hand Fist Crack

Georgia O'Keefe

This is a steep finger crack, with some hand jamming.  It is strenuous and aesthetic, but short.

An absolutely classic overhanging hand crack.  You'll wish it were three times as long.  Toward the right side of the Perpetual Motion Wall two cracks form a giant "V".  The left crack is Perpetual Motion, the right is Gross Chimney.  A bulging thin hands bit at the start gets the crux out of the way early.  Plug perfect hands (and occasional cams) up the overhanging wall while the pump clock ticks away.  It widens just a bit at the top, but that means you're almost done with it.  The view from the top is awesome, and you probably won't find a line at the base.

This route lies on the north side of the Perpetual Motion Clump, a short distance right (west) of the twin cracks of Lean Two.  It is best approached by heading east from Star Wars Rock.  It follows a right-facing corner up the wall.  The first few ascents forgot to use a rope, most-likely due to an induced chemical imbalance in the brain.  It was a gorgeous day, however, and nobody got hurt.  The corridor approach from Star Wars Rock directly to Perpetual Motion cuts through the clump to the right (west) of this route.

Hollow-sounding flakes make for a spooky lead (my partner backed off, and retrieved our gear after climbing Perpetual Motion).  In addition to being very awkward.

This is a short, steep, clean hand crack in a dihedral.

A tricky step-up (5.10b) leads to a good hand jam and moderate climbing.  Go left and up along the underside of a large flake, and pass an alcove.  The crux of the climb is just above, as you jam and undercling out over a 6 foot roof.

A thin step-across move (crux) from atop a pointy boulder gains you the thin lieback crack.  Work up that until it peters out, then maneuver left into another crack.  Tricky and tough the whole way--I like it!

This is a pleasant hand and fist crack in a shady location.

Directly below the start of Lean Two and Hoser is this route.  A dike crosses the rock right to left. It's currently bolted with grey hangers which are possibly the only color which would stand out more than standard silver.

There is a unique move or two on this route that was intriguing.  Give it a try if in the area.

This route lies on the east wall of a narrow north-south corridor just east of Perpetual Motion.  The corridor cuts through the clump, providing the most direct route between Perpetual Motion and Star Wars Rock.  The north end of the corridor is a short ways west of Hoser on the north side of the clump.  About midway through the corridor, look for a steep finger-eating thin crack across from an overhanging corner (Rainshadow).  Insert your digits and torque your way to the top.  Remember: pain builds character.

Intermittent thin crack line on left side of formation. The rock and cracks are pretty grainy, but the movement is pretty cool. Thin fingers to thin hands lead to a reachy crack switch crux and a slab finish. Vogel's old guide grades it at 11a

Hand-to-fist crack splitting a prominent low buttress about halfway between the Archimedes Cracks and the Knick Knack corridor. North facing and gets shade most of the day.

This slab climb is on a large leaning pillar on the north side of the Perpetual Motion complex of rocks.  Go north through the corridor from Perpetual Motion (past Knick and Knack) and you will come out of the corridor at the base of this route.

The climb follows the right side of the piller, using a blunt arete for a lot of the moves.  Fun climbing - we thought it deserved a star or two.

Description

Protection

Routes in Perpetual Motion Wall