endurance endurance endurance. FA was done clipping the 2nd bolt above the ledge on lead. Easier than the 14a’s on the mountain.

Gild the Lilly

Fight Club

Shotgun

Superdickman

Los Banditos

French Connection

Glory Daze

Stealers of Culture

The Great Train Robbery Extension

Banditissimo

The Great Train Robbery

End of Days

Highway Robbery

Donkey Punch

Jesus Called Me a Dick

F-Dirt

Highway Man

Wrongdoer

Conny Loves Daddy

Five Finger Discount

Underdunk

Joe Dirt

Bubblicious

Glory Crack

Just left of the Conny and Highway Man Start. Two bolts to a big ledge, then continue straight up the smooth face to the Glory Daze anchor.

The extension to Conny Loves Daddy, aka Daddy Loves Chronic. A hold broke in the upper crux above the last bolt, but has been repaired. Definitely harder now.

This route is devious and trickery is required. Climb through the first 3 bolts on bad holds to gain a good incut for the 4th clip. Make a big move to right, gain the ledge and work up left past one more bolt to the anchors.

This is a great, fun route with interesting, balancey moves. It starts up easy rock near the start of the Great Train Robbery and heads right up the easy, juggy ramp onto the ledge (full body rest, although you don't really need it yet), then left through some jugs (and a no-hands rest via a stem) to a crux section through some small holds to the biggest jugs ever, which lead to the anchor.

Start on Los Banditos, then continue up Joe Dirt for two bolts then traverse right via small small pockets. Finish straight up, same as Glory Crack.

This route shares the first four bolts of Connie Loves Daddy (not counting the bolt to get you to the ledge).  Once at the fourth bolt where the climbs diverge, head left past two more bolts to a crux with a long move, with big air as the penalty for failure.  From here the route traverses left and up for three more bolts on sustained, pumpy climbing with a few rests scattered about.  At the last two bolts head up and find the rest at the last bolt.  You will want to get as much back as you can, because the redpoint crux comes at the chains, again with big air for the unsuccessful.   

  The bolts on this route are a bit spaced out, and many of the falls are pretty big.  However, the wall is gently overhanging and there is nothing to hit but air.

I can't believe that this route doesn't get any traffic.  It is every bit as good as Connie and Highway, but just a letter grade harder.  Interesting moves, mostly positive holds and a high pump factor makes this route a great outing.  The only thing that keeps this route from being a four star classic is the approach climbing (5.2ish) and the awkward 4th clip on the second pitch (5.12b).  This climb is well bolted..so go get after it. 

  To access this climb, go up the shared start to Connie and Highwayman and once on the ledge, head right until you get to a bush and a two bolt anchor.  Unless you want to bring your belayer up to this anchor, lead to here on one rope (drop it when anchored in), and lead on another rope for the actual route OR lead up to the anchor, pull your rope through and go from there.  Either way your belayer gets to stay on the ground.

This is the extension of the popular Train Robbery route- continue past the first anchors of the Train Robbery, going straight up (out left is 5.11d) through two distinct cruxes to reach the chains high above. 

  A 70m is needed to lower off to the ground, or you can use the mid-point lower off if you have a 60m (make sure to kick off from the wall so you can swing in and grab the chains).

This climb shares a start with Los Banditos. But at the sit down ledge, keep heading up and right, following the juggy pillar.

A very fun line just left of Los Banditos. Save a little gas for the last bolt. There's a sit down ledge about half way up.   

  There is a .12a extension moving up from the first set of anchors.

Glory Daze, then continue straight up several bolts to the top of the cliff. Probably a long V8/9 to solid 5.12+ finish.

The first extension of Highway Man. At Highwayman anchor keep going up to the next anchor. Sustained good climbing.

Climb The Great Train Robbery or Joe Dirt to a slab then continue up gently overhanging wall all the way to the top. Epic climbing on some of the best rock at the Roost. Often-overlooked sadly.

 Even with an 80 you'll need to rethread on one of the lower anchors.

Superdickman, then continue straight up the End of Days extension to the top of the cliff. The plumb line of the crag, epic.

This is the easiest of the extensions on the routes at the Roost, and one of the most fun that I've done. Bring a 70m and expect to use the entire thing! Hang tough through a couple cruxes (good holds appear quickly above each of them)  and the chains are yours. 

  When lowering off, it's a good idea to unclip all but the first chain draw to straighten the rope and give you a few extra feet of slack to get down. It can be a very close lower with a 70m if your 70m is older or cut at exactly 70m.

A great route that is a little pumpy but doesn't throw any hard moves at you.  The 12a rating comes from sustained 11 climbing.

continue to the very last set of anchors at the top of the cliff. very long many moves. Needs grade confirmation or downgrade. Definitely easier than routes like “the Other” or “direct Hit”

One of the better 5.12a's up at Charleston, this fine route starts on a ledge up and left from the cave that holds America's Most Wanted and Arrested Development. Thug your way up an obvious flake system, traversing rightward (going straight up is Glory Days/Crack) after the 3rd/4th bolts off the ledge. Catch a shake when you can and hang on through the finish.

This route is much different than its neighbors to the right. Move up a left leaning crack on interesting holds to the 3rd bolt. Make a tricky reach to a base of a pod. Clip the 4th bolt and make your way up and past the pod on slippery feet. The climbing eases greatly and trends left to an anchor.

This route is a lot more fun to climb than it first appears.  Start out by scrambling up easy blocky terrain to reach the first bolt.  From here a bit of moderate climbing leads to the crux which starts at the 3rd bolt and ends just after the 4th bolt.  Once past the crux, moderate, slightly pumpy, inobvious climbing leads you to the anchor.   The fourth bolt can be a bit of a bear to clip.

This climb is the extension to Los Banditos.  Climb to the anchor of Los Banditos, take a long rest and then launch into the climbing above.  Joe Dirt starts with a big move right away, followed by sustained crimping on mostly positive holds.  There are lots of rests along the way, so find them and milk them, as the crux comes at the second to last bolt.  This crux requires the use of a mono pocket for most, so be aware if you have an aversion to using them.  I usually avoid routes that have monos, but this one is not too bad.  The crux also has a lot of moves and penalizes failure with a lot of air time.

A nice route moving through fairly good holds to a crux which requires either a big move or some techy thin climbing on overhanging rock. Pass the crux and the top of the route awards you with more good holds. Fun...

Glory Daze, then traverse left and up into French Connection finish. Long and pumpy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Robbery Wall