This route follows the dihedral system on the sw corner of the tower. A strong party could easily get the first free ascent.

Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13

Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chimney passing a bolt. Above the roof, the angle eases and the crack gets wide. Belay at the ledge on the corner of the tower. 5.11, C0

Pitch Three - This pitch is shared with the original Olevsky route. Climb cracks up the outside corner of the main tower, traverse left across a ledge and continue up a short crack to a low angle face that takes you to the top.

Wings of Leather

Dinosaurs with Guns

This is probably the easiest route up the tower and with some bolts and additional trundling could be quite safe, but for now its a pretty engaging adventure route.

p1: Several options to gain the ledge that Eye of the Newt starts from. 5.5, 30 feet

p2: Walk to the left side of the ledge. Two options: Climb the left side of the varnished pillar via an unprotected wide offwidth, or climb the right side via a thin corner with some pro. The right option ends with a short leftward traverse on very soft rock. Step across the notch and belay at a big block against the wall. 5.10-, 50 feet

p3: Reach up and right to a small shelf off the belay block and mantle up beneath the limestone layer. An awkward step right puts you beneath a V groove that you enter with some poorly protected and funky moves (crux). Step right one more time to a nice crack system that leads to a left facing corner topped by a luxurious ledge. 5.10 R, 100 feet

p4: Climb the short, unprotected but secure offwidth, make some awkward moves around left to easy loose terrain. Belay at two drilled angles next to the massive chimney that the Olevsky route comes up. 5.9 R, 50 feet

p5: Climb the nice splitter on the arete and belay at the left side of the big ledge. 5.9, 30 feet

p6: A couple moves through the crack on the left side of the ledge, then a short steep crack through soft rock to the top of the tower. 5.8, 40 feet

Descent: We rappeled the Olevsky route with a 70. Rap from the summit bolts back to the drilled angles next to the chimney. Rap down the chimney straight into the bowels of the tower (wild!) and walk through the giant chasm to the north side of the formation. Tunnel down to a ledge with two more drilled angles and one rap gets you to the ground. Easy walk back to the start.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Warlock